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d. Strictly - Shockley's
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Oscar and Charlie 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 1950s: Oscar Dorfman (Oscar's Variation)
Page Views: 4,286
Submitted By: bryan barnett on Nov 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (83)
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Ryan in the Oscar/Charlie corner

Description 

1. Oscar variation as a start to Strictly From Nowhere: Climb the large left-facing corner over a bulge to the top of the corner. Trend right towards the large left facing Strictly corner and overhang. Move right and up to bolt anchors behind pine tree.

2. Oscar to Travels With Charley: After the corner, move up the face to a good horizontal. Traverse left 15 feet to join Travels With Charley. Climb up to an overhang and move up and right at a break. A bit dirty.

Location 

Start in the large left-facing corner to the left of Strictly From Nowhere; this is 40' to the left of Shockley's Ceiling.

Approach via the trail that rises almost directly across from the top of the Stairmaster.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack.


Photos of Oscar and Charlie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up for the P1 crux of "Oscar & Charli...
Setting up for the P1 crux of "Oscar & Charli...
Rock Climbing Photo: Guillaume Frechette in the p1 corner of Oscar and ...
BETA PHOTO: Guillaume Frechette in the p1 corner of Oscar and ...

Comments on Oscar and Charlie Add Comment
Show which comments
By doligo
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Better, more sustained way to approach Strictly's roof, IMO. Finished on Shockley's Ceiling.
By Heather Selitrennikoff
From: East Coast
Sep 27, 2010

We did Oscar and Charlie, P2 finishs up with 2 small roofs/ledges that have a few slightly pumpy moves. Nice variation over doing the Shockley's finish.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Broke this into three pitches as the grey Williams guide says (I led Strictly's :-) This worked well since the area was rather crowded and there were three of us. Avoided Shockley's Ceiling and the traffic jam of people there. Overall the route was quite worthwhile.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 25, 2012

I very much enjoy P1.
By Kurtz
Oct 30, 2013

Clarification: P1 ends at BOLT anchors behind the second, smaller pine tree; not the first, bigger pine tree with a rapp anchor.

If you link Shockley's from the O.C. bolts, you can just make it to the top with a 60m rope, but belay from the tree to the right of the normal Shockley's finish.
By rogerbenton
Nov 14, 2013

P1- great little corner.
By Josh Smethers
From: Malvern, pa
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun short corner with good stemming and pro.
By Ben Hoste
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jun 9, 2017

One could fairly easily combine the starting "Oscar" corner and the bit from Strictly, which would end up as a very exciting and fun filled pitch. Combing this with Shockley's would be a great combo. The final pitch of Oscar Charlie has some nice finger jams though. Curious if anyone has climbed an ultimate pitch from the GT ledge the top of the cliff as part of Oscar Charlie? Didn't seem clear to me that there was one, but it could be nice to top out this route.

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