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Osama bin Gotten 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 145'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tony Sartin, May 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,111
Submitted By: Tony Sartin on Mar 12, 2013

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Description 

This is an extension of Heart of the Sun. Continue straight up above the anchor passing 3 bolts to a large ledge below a steep headwall. Clip a bolt and bust steep moves to the last right facing jug just before the angle lessens. Instead of climbing straight up to the bolt on the slab above, traverse left to a welcomed rest around the corner. Reach right to clip, and then continue further left into a right facing dihedral. Climb as high as you can in the corner before traversing back right to clip the next bolt. Continue up past two more bolts to finish at a three bolt anchor/lower-off.
With a 70m, lower back down to the Heart of the Sun anchor. Pull and lower again to the ground. Not sure if a 60m will reach to LPL. With a 60m rap twice. You could also do this climb as a second pitch if you don't mind a hanging belay. In that case, a 60m works fine to lower. As a second pitch, it has 10 bolts.

Location 

Keep climbing above the Heart of the Sun anchors. LPL with a 70m. Rap twice with a 60m.

Protection 

18 bolts (first eight are on Heart of the Sun) to a triple bolt lower off.


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