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Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afterthought TR 
Anduril S,TR 
Art Imitates Life S 
Art of the Pissant S 
Big Kahuna S 
Black Rider S,TR 
Caradhras T 
Cirith Ungol T 
Clairemont Calling TR 
Dimrill Stair T 
Dwarrowdelf T 
Easy Rider S,TR 
Fangorn Crack T,TR 
Fool's Gold S 
Gandalf T 
Glamdring S 
Grandpa's Dihedral TR 
Isengard S 
Karmic Relief S 
Khazaddum S 
Little Bruiser T 
Lord of the Rings S 
Marranon T,TR 
Merryanne TR 
Middle Finger TR 
Nameless Right of Shadowfax TR 
Nameless to the right of Fools Gold T,TR 
Orange Sunshine S 
Orc T 
Orthanc S 
Out on a Whim T 
Radagast T 
Risky Business T,S 
Rock Wrestling T 
Rocking the Dalai Lama S 
Room With A View (aka Helm's Deep) T 
Sam I Am T 
Shadowfax T 
Shelob's Lair T 
Slice and Dice T 
Smeagol's Surprise T 
Straight Out of Sitka TR 
Strider TR 
Strider Face TR 
When Good Books Go Bad TR 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Sport, 20'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Hooper
Page Views: 1,353
Submitted By: Kyle Wills on Sep 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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A different perspective of Orthanc.

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Low angle slab climb on the face of the prominent pinnacle in the Middle Earth area. Fairly sustained climbing with the single bolt being plenty of protection for the short face.


Pinnacle lies above the "Out on a whim" climb and beneath the Middle Earth Canyon area.


1 bolt. Bolted anchors

Photos of Orthanc Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Finger, front and center. Orthanc to the ri...
BETA PHOTO: Middle Finger, front and center. Orthanc to the ri...

Comments on Orthanc Add Comment
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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 17, 2010

Use this to set a TR on the Middle Finger (5.10). That will up the stars on your experience.
By Perchalot chin
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 14, 2013

No bolts on top. (except 2 on the face for middle finger 5.10, but these are on another plane)
By Safty Third
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 22, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This thing isn't even in highball range. Just go for it with a spotter and use it as low risk down climb practice. Also, I don't think it's 20ft. Probably closer to 12ft-15ft.

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