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Orphans of War 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 1,060
Submitted By: Jon Marek on Jul 2, 2011

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Orphans of War.

Description 

Orphans of War is a crescendo of interesting pockets and hard to see feet that leads to a finale of edges and a big jug at the end. Well placed bolts make for easy clipping and fun rides on this slightly overhanging wall.

Location 

four routes right of Last of the Mohicans

Protection 

bolts


Photos of Orphans of War Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Orphans of War, 5.12a.  Indian Wars Wall. The Mohi...
Orphans of War, 5.12a. Indian Wars Wall. The Mohi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Orphans of War, 5.12a.
Orphans of War, 5.12a.

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By slim
Administrator
Jun 15, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

this is a superb route with pumpy climbing leading to a pretty brutal mono move. excellent stone and perfect protection.
By Dustin Stephens
May 18, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Didn't encounter any monos on this one. Excellent power-endurance face climbing on perfect rock. A touch harder than Mohicans IMO.
By Franck Vee
Aug 4, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Well I guess you could use alternate holds, but I think the mono is the easiest option.

Woah, what a sustained route and it is indeed in a crescendo. Super fun to read and I would be tempted to say a tad harder than TLOTM just nearby. Less cruxy, I think the harder moves of TLOTM are harder than any single move on that one but I can't imagine getting close to linking Orphans. I would need a winter of gym training....

For those like me who are scared of monos: well if you're super-human like Dustin you can probably use alternatives. Otherwise it's no so bad a mono and not the hardest move of the route, so provided you pulled the other ones you're probably fine to just stick it in there...

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