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Diff'rent Strokes Buttress
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Ornery Miss Garrett 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 117'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 07'
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 710
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Oct 13, 2008

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Can you find the Doug? Ornery Miss Garrett is the...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts on broken rock down low in the gulch. The climbing is pretty fun despite appearance on big jugs, but the juice is in the dihedral. Plug some small gear and step up into the crack. (You'll see a bolt line on the arete this is Rule The World) A couple of bolts and TCU's bring you up fun moves on nice rock. After the low angle wide-ish section look to your right up the open book, there is a fixed pin at the end. From this airy stance slab your way up chickenheads passing a bolt to the 2 ring anchor. Don't let rope drag make you as Ornery as the Drummond housekeeper.

Location 

The start has 2 fixed pins and is about 10 feet to the right of Diff'rent Strokes.

Protection 

A full rack w TCU's (2) .75 camalots are nice, Shoulder slings.


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By tenesmus
Oct 15, 2008

This is a fun warmup and longer than you'd think
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 3, 2012

The start has a shiny bolt before the two pins. No full rack needed. A single set to 1.5" will be fine. Lots of unnecessary bolts.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 12, 2017

She was ornery last Sunday - getting lowered, I dislodged a large block 8 feet off the ground that I had climbed over on the way up. Very fortunate there were no injuries as it almost got my partner! As for the route, I thought it was well worth doing. There are only 2 bolts in the corner and I was happy for the second one that I could clip mid-crux as there is a bit of a ledge fall potential there.

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