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Just above the crux.
This is the natural line climber's right of Flakey
& Garden Party - it has a small tree in the flaring, starting crack. Start on flaring finger locks & thin feet (RPs), grab a jug on the lower seam, & pull into a perfect hand crack (is more vertical than it looks from the ground). Exit the handcrack and move up a slab at .8+. It's a fun mix of climbing for 30m.
RPs, nuts/wires to hang on 3 bolt studs (hangers are removed), hand-sized cams for the handcrack. There is a tree on top - webbing & rap rings were there 01/06 and in good condition, rap 30m back to the ground. Or, continue up easy & walk off.
BETA PHOTO: Original Sin.
By Jay Eggleston
Feb 16, 2011
No RPs are needed as described by the original poster. Small 1/4" nut yes, RPs no. A #0.5 and #0.4 C4 go above the nut and protect the crux well. The first, hangerless bolt is really not needed.