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A short distance left of "Middle of the Road" is a left facing dihedral. Just left of this dihedral is a beautiful straight in finger crack in a very shallow left facing corner that begins about 15' above the talus. Pitch 1, 5.9: Climb this finger crack until it disappears. Now you will find a thin hand crack just to the right. Continue to a set of anchors at the bottom of the second pitch. Pitch 2, 5.10d: Move up and right along a hand crack that pierces the tiered roof. Rappel from the "Weather or Not" anchors (two-90'rappels). The first pitch is very worthy. The second pitch is quite strenous and very airy.
Two sets of stoppers, Set of cams 1/2" to 4" with extra 2.5" to 3.5"
By Byron J. Hastings
From: Mystic, SD
Jul 10, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
The anchors (rusty old bolts) at the top of the first pitch are scary.