Original Side Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Aerial view of the Original Side at Mentmore
This is the original Mentmore. The area that allured the original pioneers of the area to start drilling bolts. Has a great selection of climbs ranging from 5.8 to 5.12a. Enjoy! Walls are numbered from left to right, starting on the far left side of the climbing area by the railroad tracks. When following the trail, however, you will typically end up near between (04) Benny Silva Wall
, and (05) Health Wall
. Both of these walls have a nice variety of climbs on them.
Once to the parking area, look for a break on the North side of the lot through the fence. Follow the trail down through the arroyo, past some big ugly signs that the city put up, and to the crag. Pretty difficult to miss. There is also a newer trail that has been more recently been developed that can be used if the arroyo is full of water. This trail starts on the west side of parking area just left of a large wooden information sign. Of course, this used to be a nice sign, but there are certain sects of Gallup locals who prefer not to have anything nice and decorate things like this with bullet holes.
Alternate driving directions to the Original Side:
From the parking area on the New Side ... drive back out east to the paved road (County Road 1), take the sharp left and follow the road north and then west (across the one-lane bridge) ... then just as the road starts to turn right near the tracks, take the LEFT onto the dirt. Drive half a mile south to the obvious parking area. Road surface conditions vary considerably (dirt and gravel piles), so don't try the drive in just any vehicle.
Weather station 4.8 miles from here
36 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Original Side
Muy Enfermo 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b NM
: Gallup Area
: ... : (03) Bivi Wall/Swallow Wall
One of the most popular routes at Mentmore, and all the more so since it was accorded "area classic" status in Falcon Press's 'Rock Climbing New Mexico". This IS an excellent route: steep and sustained, with interesting movement throughout on a variety of hold types. For the full effect, stay on the boltline; moving right to rest on lower-angled terrain makes it significantly easier. This route suffers a bit from loose and crumbly rock, however. Be careful not to bean the belayer. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
BETA PHOTO: Photo-topo of the original side.
Sep 26, 2016
I'm working on updating the area info with the latest beta and putting back some anchors that seem to have walked off. If anyone has info or other comments please share! Thanks!