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The Lighthouse
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Original Route 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jake Dayley - 1/4/12
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, fall, winter
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: Jake Dayley on Mar 11, 2016

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Original route

Description 

Pitch 1 - 5.9, 45'. From the ledge in the notch face climb up about 15 feet and mantle onto a ledge. Climb up another 15 feet of easy choss to the west shoulder of the Lighthouse. Tip toe along the shoulder past teetering blocks and scramble up some not so teetering blocks to a two bolt belay on the left edge of the summit block.

Pitch 2 - 5.10-, 15'. Short but rad! Step around the corner into instant exposure and follow three bolts through good patina to the summit.

Rappel: Same as all other Lighthouse routes, two 150' rappels down to the north slabs.

Location 

Hike up the north side of the Lighthouse all the way to the notch.

Protection 

5 slings
3 quickdraws
one each, .5-#2 Camalot's


(2) 60m ropes


Comments on Original Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 13, 2016

FYI for those wanting to blow their onsight of Spaceman by toprope rehearsing. From the summit you can do a short rap to the narrow ridge at the top of pitch 4 of Spaceman, do an exposed walk to anchors at the east end of the ridge (probably want to rope up or stay on rappel for the walk). Rap Spaceman with 2 ropes.

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