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Ten Minute Spire
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Original Route T 
Times Up T 

Original Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Burcham, Albert Newman
Page Views: 337
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Feb 29, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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It's quite the squeeze!

Description 

A clean, right-facing dihedral with a fist-OW crack leads to a pull over a blocky bulge into the upper chimney. This cool squeeze chimney leads up past 1 bolt to a ledge and anchors. Scramble up slabs to the summit and downclimb to rap off.

Location 

Out of the notch on the north side.

Protection 

(1X) 3,4,5 C4 Camalots, 1 bolt, chains. 1 60m rope.


Photos of Original Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek at the crux, right before entering the chimn...
Derek at the crux, right before entering the chimn...
Rock Climbing Photo: Emily Reinsel follows the OG Route.
Emily Reinsel follows the OG Route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek leading the way up the pristine dihedral
Derek leading the way up the pristine dihedral
Rock Climbing Photo: The route.
BETA PHOTO: The route.

Comments on Original Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 29, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

An aesthetic route to a neat little summit. Pristine dihedral down low offers a cool sequence of layback moves. Pulling the bulge into the chimney is super exciting thanks to a few dubious overhanging blocks. Squeeze chimney is technically easy but it feels wild up there!
By Stephen Dobbs
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 30, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Second to what Derek said. All I'd like to add is be careful of some dubious flakes at the beginning of the route. When used, the flake gives a flex, and a nice hallow sound. Not cool. Also, right before the chimney, there is a small boulder of mudstone that also doesn't feel very secure. Tread lightly. However, I still highly recommend this route! Very memorable and the squeeze chimney offers a rather exciting traverse into exposure.
By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Oct 17, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yes, an excellent inner passage adventure. Fun start on beautiful rock, nice cruxy section of wide crack into chimney. Well protected with mentioned gear and the one bolt (not 2 as in Bloom/Wolfe guide). This and Times Up make a super fun romp on Ten Minute Spire. Superb rock on both routes.

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