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Sitting Bear Spire
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Original Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Lawrence, Will Fulton, Steve Longenecker (1968)
Page Views: 707
Submitted By: Johnny O on Jul 20, 2014

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The questionable, fixed bolts are circled.

Seasonal Raptor Closure-Lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the first line that was climbed on the spire. Climb up through the overhang in the center of the East face, past a bolt and left towards a line of bolts. Additional pro can be used before and after the first bolt. After the last bolt, trend back to the right and head up to the belay rings located on the detached head. Cams can be used to protect the final moves. This route was rated a 5.8 originally. This is the easiest route to the top and could be aided if need be. Standing on top of the head of the spire provides one of the more aesthetic views of the Linville Gorge.

Location 

Located on the East face, facing the trail.

Protection 

Five old, dubious bolts with ample opportunity to place additional pro. Would highly recommend backing up the bolts. There is a newer set of stainless ring anchors at the top.


Photos of Original Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The questionable, fixed bolts are circled.
The questionable, fixed bolts are circled.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the Gorge from the bear's head.
Looking down the Gorge from the bear's head.
Rock Climbing Photo: Placing a cam to protect the final move to the top...
Placing a cam to protect the final move to the top...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the overhang before the first bolt.
Pulling the overhang before the first bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Standing at the last bolt.
Standing at the last bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the overhang, about the middle of the main w...
Above the overhang, about the middle of the main w...

Comments on Original Route Add Comment
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By nbrown
From: western NC
Aug 13, 2015

Two of the bolts on this line were updated in '96 with carbon steel 5 pieces. They're quite rusty but probably still pretty bomber. The other two (original bolts) are about 50 years old and should not be trusted - and they're not needed if you place a bit of gear next to them, as mentioned above.

The first bolt shown out right in the picture is on a different route that no ones really does. It was a squeeze job of mine and has recently been removed.

The original start uses a stopper in the initial seam, left of where the bolt was, and a hand size cam in a horizontal above. This gets you to the bolt line very safely at only 5.9. The way people were doing it (by getting lured right) was probably more like 5.10.