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North Noddle Head (First Noddle Head)
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Beau Knows T 
Original Route T 
Sounds of a Desperate Man T 

Original Route 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: CMC climbers in the 1950s
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Jun 12, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The crack with the notch you climb into at the top...

Description 

This climb mainly goes up a crack formed by a flake. The crack varies in size but takes good gear. There is a ledge below the last pitch which is the crux. The hardest move involves a handjam and a mantel. If this crack did not involve an hour hike, it might be popular, but the approach makes the climb hardly worth the effort. You also don't reach the summit, but it looks possible to follow a crack around to the west to do the last pitch of Sounds of a Desperate Man if you wish to summit.

Location 

This is located on the east face of the First Noddle Head. It goes up the center of the main face and is to the left of the dual wide cracks which form a "v". Most of the climb follows a crack formed by a flake, but at the bottom, there are lots of bushes. I started to the left in a chimney to access the main crack. To get down Haas, Shneider, and Weinhold say to work off to the north. I rappelled the last pitch, going to the east, before scrambling down to the north.

Protection 

Standard rack up to a #4 Camalot. There are some old fixed pitons. I left webbing on a flake to rap the last pitch.


Photos of Original Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crack.
BETA PHOTO: The crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: A piton near the crux.
BETA PHOTO: A piton near the crux.

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