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Original Route T 

Original Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a A2+

Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a A2+ [details]
FA: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett, Brad Bonds, Nov. 1998
Season: Fall through Spring
Page Views: 493
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Dec 27, 2013

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Brad Bond, cleaning start of pitch 2. In the rain,...

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  • Description 

    Pitch 1:
    There are multiple ways to access 'Dick For'. 'Day of the Eagle' seems to be the most aesthetic option. You can also hike up the canyon to the left of 'Day of the Eagle' and avoid a pitch one all together. Whatever you end up doing the goal is to get to the crack off the bench on the north side of the tower. Once on the bench, bolts should be visible high on the tower.

    Pitch 2:
    Step across a 3' wide 30' deep chimney to access the crack. Climb this crack up and left past some broken sections. Make and awkward move up and right to access a big sloping ledge. Traverse the ledge right to more crack and bolts above.

    One double rope rappel puts you on the ground.


    This list of pro is for the summit pitch only as there are multiple ways to approach the base of this pitch.

    Double set of cams from black alien to #1 camalot
    One #2 and #3 camalot
    Assortment of pins including baby angles, lost arrows, peakers, and blades.

    Photos of Original Route Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: me, sunset, starting up pitch 2.
    me, sunset, starting up pitch 2.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brad Bond rappelling, Dickfour
    Brad Bond rappelling, Dickfour
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brad Bond jumping and cleaning pitch 2, first asce...
    Brad Bond jumping and cleaning pitch 2, first asce...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brad Bond starting pitch 1 of the Dickfour, first ...
    Brad Bond starting pitch 1 of the Dickfour, first ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dickfour
    BETA PHOTO: Dickfour
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dick For
    BETA PHOTO: Dick For

    Comments on Original Route Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
    Dec 30, 2013

    Nice write up, Ben!

    One thing, the name of the tower is, of course, supposed to be Dickfour, one word.
    By Matt Pickren
    Dec 30, 2013

    Crusher, good to know that it is actually named "Dickfour" rather than "Dick For." However, where does the name come from. I've wondered for years since I first saw the spire while climbing 143 in 2006. Some history may be interesting, and even better, to quite our friend B. Grasse who excessively asks 'Whats a Dick for?!"

    Thanks for the reply, Matt
    By Andy Donson
    Dec 30, 2013

    Matt, I think its a style of British cuisine, commonly served at lunchtime.
    By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
    Jan 4, 2014 of British cuisine....?

    No, not quite right. Old construction site command, directed at the newest laborer: "Hey, fetch me a dickfour!" followed by a puzzled look and the inevitable query.....

    Too bad Bjornstad got it wrong, so it ended up written wrong here, so I have to laboriously explain the joke so the joke loses any humor it may have once had....
    By Ben Kiessel
    Jan 31, 2014

    Thanks for the correction.

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