REI Community
Hoodgie Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankles Away S 
East Face Block TR 
East Face Hueco TR 
Escuche Vaca Heard T 
Holy Shiite, Muslim! T 
Hoodgie T 
Leonosphere S 
NorthEast Arete TR 
Original Route T 

Original Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 531
Submitted By: Justin Tomlinson on May 6, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


The opening few moves are thin. A little higher was a strech move to gain the only bolt at about 20 feet up. Climb easy ledges to the crack another 20 feet up and sink some gear. Bring a sling and you can equalize several cams. Climb easy knobs and ledges above, merging with "Ankles Away", sharing the same anchor. (Note: This is how I climbed the route. I didn't see anchors for this route specifically, though the Croft/Lewis book shows anchors.)

A good spicy challenge in the otherwise heavily bolted hills. Take great care not to break holds to avoid long falls.


1 bolt + cam(s) at the high horizontal crack. I brought a .75, 1 and 2 C4 and they all fit in the crack.

Comments on Original Route Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About