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Original Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2+ PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2+ PG13 [details]
FA: Mike Baker solo, May 1992
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 30, 2010

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This photo shows from pitch 2 up. Matt is startin...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1- Aid up through sections of rotten rock until the angle lessons and you can free climb. Build a gear anchor on a ledge at the base of the tower. (green alien to #1 seemed to fit.) 5.8, C2 175'

Pitch 2- Climb up from the belay on 5.8 passing a pin to a pin ladder. Belay at a 3 pin anchor on a small stance. 60'

Pitch 3-Climb the rotten crack directly above your belayer passing some suspect fixed gear along the way. Aid out an overhang and finish the pitch on a ledge with a two pin anchor. A2+ 110'

NOTE: Combine pitches 2 and 3 if you don't want to hit your belayer with rocks.

Pitch 4- Climb 5.8 up and right to a crack and then a ledge. Continue to the top at 5.9 passing a pin. Two pin anchor. 40'

Descent- Rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 3. Then down to a two pin anchor on slabs to the climbers right of the pitch 1 belay. Then to the ground.


Location 

Start at the obvious crack on the prow below the tower facing the road.

Protection 

Triples from Black alien to #1 Camalot, two #2 and #3, one new #4 Camalot. Alien Hybrids, HB Offsets, Tricams, selection of angles.


Photos of Original Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben starting pitch 1 with the bride in the backgro...
Ben starting pitch 1 with the bride in the backgro...

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