REI Community
Carson's Tower
Select Route:
Original Route T 
Sand In My Pants T 

Original Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mark Whiton, solo, fall 1995
Page Views: 6,962
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Mar 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Start by stemming between the two sections of the tower. There's no pro for the first little bit, but it's super easy. Clip two drilled pitons on the main formation and then step across, do a couple moves, and you're at the anchors.

See topo pic.


The route starts on the east side of the tower at the obvious cleft between the two parts of the formation. One (two, if you're looking from the right angle) drilled pins high up can be seen from the ground .


#4 Camalot, #3 Camalot, shoulder-length sling (I had to lengthen it with a quickdraw...), a couple quickdraws or slings for the drilled pitons.

Photos of Original Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The higher of the 2 pro pitons.
The higher of the 2 pro pitons.
Rock Climbing Photo: A red BD hex to the right and roughly the level of...
BETA PHOTO: A red BD hex to the right and roughly the level of...
Rock Climbing Photo: bondo on top
bondo on top
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower of the 2 pro pitons.
Lower of the 2 pro pitons.
Rock Climbing Photo: first pin
first pin
Rock Climbing Photo: Tristan Hechtel atop Carson's Tower
Tristan Hechtel atop Carson's Tower

Comments on Original Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 16, 2009

I had looked at this a lot in Desert Rock III but the lack of any other information put me off. One weekend when I couldn't find a partner to climb with I decided to find this tower and climb it. It has two drilled pins on top, not one as stated in the Bjornstad guide.

This actually seemed a little bit harder than 5.7 to me... Maybe 5.8, but definitely no harder than that. This is probably the easiest summit in the Fishers. It's pretty safe, easy, and fun.
By Eric Odenthal
Nov 8, 2009

Fun tower. cool moves involving stemming. the first piece is up a ways, I tied off the bolts, they stick out a little to far to clip the eyes... which seems to be the way of the fishers. Anchor replaced 11.7.09.
By sibylle
From: Colorado
Mar 21, 2010

I placed a #3 Camalot and a #4 Camalot, with long slings, below the pins (bolts? I can't remember). The step across is harder for the vertically challenged. My 6'2" son had no trouble, but I could reach nothing to hold on to.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R

what a fun little tower. put this on your to do list. run out. i got one #3 camalot below the first pin. i agree with eric about the pins (theres two). there were two more for the anchor. 5.7+++ or just call it easy 5.8 move.
By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 24, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Fun little route! A little bit of a crypto dodging, wash scrambling hike in, but well worth it! Don't expect any good pro until clipping the first piton. I got in an okay #3 and slung a horn but both were extended so far they would have done little good. After the pitons are clipped through yourself across and hope for the best! From there it's an easy scramble to the top!
By Howard
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 28, 2016

For the shorter, there are slopey underclings with a divot thumb catch to help you step across. You'll still want to get your feet right, though. When I stepped my left foot across, I placed my toe just so and had my stance right and then knew I'd stick it even before committing to it.
By Howard
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 28, 2016

A red hex to the right before beginning the little chimney section seemed bomber. (See photo.) A #5 to the left on the same level was decent once fiddled in just right.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About