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Original Route, The Podium T 
Zen S 

Original Route, The Podium 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Randy Levitt, Mike Geller, Nov. 1988
Page Views: 395
Submitted By: Murf on Mar 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Cool position and moves.

Description 

An exciting climb which culminates in slapping the not quite knife edge of the south-east arete. Bolted in standard JT style, it is never quite dangerous, but often thought provoking. The rock toward the center of the face is not the best, but this climb stays mostly true to the arete on solid holds.

The Original Route is a stand out climb with an amazing summit view. It would have a constant queue in a more accessed area of the park, but here it is an enjoyable obscurity for those who venture out to find it.

Location 

The Original Route is located on the obvious southeast arete. Start off a block on that corner.

Protection 

Four bolts; three oddly scattered bolts on the top with currently poor tat. It is possible to move down the shuts on top of Zen to rappel.


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By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The orginal write-up for this (Climbing #109, August 1988) described it as "5.12-type moves at a 5.10 standard".

Perhaps there's some truth to that but I don't recall being blown away by the route.
By Murf
Mar 22, 2010

Chris nice index into the old rags.

Anyway, 4 stars might be pushing it, three seems fair. Offhand I can't think of another JT route where you are lay backing an edge as thin as this one. Spectacular position as well.

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