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Original Exploit TR 

Original Exploit 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: April - September
Page Views: 45
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Apr 30, 2010

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Description 

The crux is getting up the overhanging wall after leaving the flake.
Some necessary holds seem very friable. To date, they've held, but any pro would rely on one of these not breaking, or a groundfall would result.
This was one of the first routes I inspected on Crane. An attempt to lead it ended in the FA of Thank You, Cindy.
Either chimney up the flake "cave" or clamber up boulders to the right. On top of the big flake, step up and left to gain a fading crack as it breaks the overhanging base of the main cliff wall. Continue up the face above to the top.

Location 

If rappeling from the top, this climb starts on the left side of a large flake leaning against the cliff, forming a cave/chimney.
Descent: via the hiking path, or rappel and do another route.

Protection 

Top-Rope.


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