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Original Chimney Route 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Season: Fall, Summer, Spring
Page Views: 303
Submitted By: Bill Lundeen on Dec 29, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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5 star summit

Description 

Awesome old-school chimney pitch! Quite clean varied route of all sizes, with a crux in a tight squeeze serious of moves protected by 1 bolt.

Location 

North side towards the West end, obvious slot system.
Rap route with 1 70m rope.

Protection 

Singles to 5" is a plenty good rack. Stoppers. 1 bolt? Fixed rap anchor at top off the SW side.


Photos of Original Chimney Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chains to rappel off on the southwest side of the ...
BETA PHOTO: Chains to rappel off on the southwest side of the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: I thought this was the crux.   Photo: Alexis Trude...
I thought this was the crux. Photo: Alexis Trude...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nate peering up the top part of the chim.
Nate peering up the top part of the chim.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the chimney from the base. Time to get ...
Looking up the chimney from the base. Time to get ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the chimney with Nate on belay.  Photo: Al...
Leading the chimney with Nate on belay. Photo: Al...

Comments on Original Chimney Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Davidson
Feb 2, 2017

A classic 5.7 my axe old school route.
I believe this is from the late '50s (1959 or so) by Bob Kamps.
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 3, 2017
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Wow, 50s! Definitely a couple of burly heaves on this one. I encountered no bolt.
By Colton Dimeck
Jun 9, 2017
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed and rappelled with 70m rope no length issues

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