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Kachina Woman
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Frito Bandito T 
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Original Bandito T 

Original Bandito 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tim & Larry Coats
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: Derek Field on Jun 28, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Original Bandito topo. Depicted here is the left-h...

Description 

The original route on Kachina Woman ascends the obvious corner system on the northeast aspect. This is the easiest way to the top of this formation.

First-time climbers may notice two options for the start, which are listed below.
Left-hand start: Start by walking over to and then surmounting the semi-detached block on the east side of the spire. Clip a fixed piton before traversing right to the base of the corner. About 5.7.
Right-hand start: Boulder up out of the main cave and bust a few dicey slab moves (with groundfall potential) until reaching a single bolt. Traverse left to the base of the corner. Something like 5.9+ R.

The crux comprises the short sequence of moves in the corner. Lots of features here, and lots of pro. Everybody I know disagrees with the 5.10- rating assigned in the Bloom guidebook. Above the crux, continue up the chunky offwidth to a platform below the summit block and climb the obvious wavy crack to the top.

Rappel the north side of the spire with one 60m rope.

Location 

Marked on google maps as Boynton Canyon Vortex, the area immediately surrounding Kachina Woman is a popular day-hiking destination. Park at Boynton Canyon trailhead and follow the main trail for 5 minutes until the Vista Trail turnoff on the right-hand side. This well-worn path cuts east, keeping below the spire on the south side, before switchbacking a short distance to the south saddle. Contour around the west side of the spire to access the north saddle, where Original Bandito begins. Total: 15-20 minutes

Protection 

Single rack to BD #3.


Photos of Original Bandito Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Alexis emerging from the corner.
Alexis emerging from the corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nate traversing across to the base of the main cor...
Nate traversing across to the base of the main cor...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve looking southeast at Kachina Woman while ret...
Steve looking southeast at Kachina Woman while ret...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the 80-foot free-hanging rappel down the ...
Starting the 80-foot free-hanging rappel down the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The left-hand start.
The left-hand start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking northeast at Kachina Woman on the approach...
Looking northeast at Kachina Woman on the approach...

Comments on Original Bandito Add Comment
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By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jul 7, 2016

FA: Coats Brothers 1980's. Originally rated 5.10- but maybe they went out around to the north more for harder exit? Who knows... obvious exit is easy off ledge.

Could be cool to get Bandito Spire into its own area within Boyton Area so that we can add the Frito Bandito Route to the feature as well...??
By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Sep 20, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Agreed... Thought the route was easier than the rating--surprising for an old route. Would also call it 5.9. Would give it 2 stars and Frito 3.

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