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(6) Far East Wall
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Orient Express S,TR 

Orient Express 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
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Page Views: 129
Submitted By: rl23455 on Feb 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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View from top of Orient Express

Description 

bring a brush

Location 

see beta photo.

Protection 

Quickdraws. Bolt Anchor.


Photos of Orient Express Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Orient Express from Belay Ledge - sorry for blurry...
BETA PHOTO: Orient Express from Belay Ledge - sorry for blurry...

Comments on Orient Express Add Comment
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By das1405
From: Portland
Apr 21, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Not a terrible climb IMO.
A couple of Pros: would be a really good spot to take beginners to rappel. easy set up and nice ledge at bottom of climb or can easily rappel down to forest floor (60m will hit floor); good tree backup; very clean on top and bottom (for RB)
Cons: Very dirty (it rained briefly on us and our shoes got pretty muddy on climb out); if you TR route add directional to top bolt or risk a big swing if you fall on the ascent; Hard for the grade IMO, wouldn't recommend the climb for beginners, some awkward holds and technical footwork on a dirty slab.
By Vince Schreck
From: Portland, OR
Aug 23, 2016

I totally agree with das1405. You'll know you're on the right climb, because it starts on the platform with a tree, and right below the platform is a short climb Tiger's Eye 5.10b. From the top, there is a big tree you can use to top rope the climb. Watch for sap!

Concerning the grade, yes, it seems closer to 5.9 or maybe 5.10a. It has an awkward start in a finger crack, some smearing on dirty slab, awkward holds above, and some strange clips. I wouldn't want to lead it, because it felt very insecure with all the dirt.

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