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Orient Express 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mieko Akutsu, Gail McClanahan
Page Views: 1,705
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Oct 12, 2006

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Orient Express is a fun bolted route on a large, narrow boulder behind the Practice Slab and right of the obvious Jack Knife crack. Begin off three chockstones at the base of the route (good belay ledge below the chockstones). Climb the steep face past four bolts using small scoops and dishes for your feet and a collection of large crystals and small edges for hands. The crux is clipping the second bolt, and the moves above the third bolt are equally interesting. At the third bolt, climb up and right to a very positive flake that leads to the fourth bolt. There is a little run out to the top of the boulder. There is a set of anchors on the wall behind the top of the boulder. The best bet is to rap off and pull the long end of the rope through to minimize rope drag over the sharp, crystalline granite. Felt a little harder than the 5.9 rating.


Four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

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By Ryan Levihn-Coon
From: Austin, Texas
Mar 17, 2014

Among my favorite 5.9 face climbs in the park. Beautiful rock, route and location. Newhart stance is a couple chockstones above a deep chasm, probably with some booty draws from blown stick clips below. Easy enough first bolt, but a fall there might be you're end.
By Gunther Chesnut
From: San Antonio
Apr 14, 2016

Really enjoyable climb. Small holds up the face - nice steep with small features everywhere.
By cliffmama
Mar 3, 2017

Cheated. We had a telescoping stick clip and from the left side, you can clip the 3rd bolt so my lead wasn't so scary. We were afraid the rap from the far back bolt anchors would put us in the huge crevice, but the ropes managed to stay over the route. It's a fine route though, and worth doing.

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