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Orient Bay Ice and Mixed

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Cascade Falls/Obsession Area 
Ice Palace 
North End 
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South End 

Orient Bay Ice and Mixed Rock Climbing 


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Location: 49.37341, -88.12958 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,468
Administrators: Dave Rone, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Aug 19, 2009
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Orient Bay, Ontario. Henning Boldt nearing the top...

Description 

Description
One of Canada's premiere winter climbing areas. Many high-quality lines.




Getting There 

Getting There
From Duluth take Hwy 61 north across the US border. Continue on 61 into Thunder Bay. From Thunder Bay, take Hwy 11 into Nipigon (motels, food, beer). To get to the climbs from Nipigon, continue on Hwy 11 for about 36 miles until you reach Trans-Canada Pipeline Station on the left. At that point, the prominent Glace Eclatante will be visible ahead. You're there.

References: "Ice Climbs of the Lake Superior Region" by Eric Landmann and Don Hynek, Granite Publishing

Websites: Climbing Central Beta Page,
Alpine Club of Canada, Thunder Bay Section: acctbay.ca./index.php

Climbing Season



Weather station 19.5 miles from here

42 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Orient Bay Ice and Mixed

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Orient Bay Ice and Mixed:
Tempest   WI2+     Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   Cascade Falls/Obsession Are...
Andromeda Weeps   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches, 200'   North End
Remember the Day   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 175'   Ice Palace
Glace Eclatante   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   Pumping Station Area
Amy R   WI2+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   Reflection Wall/Amy R Area
Hully Gully   WI2+     Ice, 2 pitches, 140'   South End
Gomar Falls   WI3     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 260'   Pumping Station Area
Starquake   WI5     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   North End
Tears of Joy   WI3+     Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   North End
Obsession   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches, 180'   Cascade Falls/Obsession Are...
Evil Des Sens   WI4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 55'   Ice Palace
Ranxerox Tangent   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   Ice Palace
Mellow Yellow   WI3+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   South End
10% Real   WI5     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 150'   Ice Palace
Sycho Icycho   WI2+     Ice, 1 pitch, 190'   Cascade Falls/Obsession Are...
Cascade Falls   WI3-4     Ice, 1 pitch, 130'   Cascade Falls/Obsession Are...
Bananarama   WI2+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 245'   Pumping Station Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Orient Bay Ice and Mixed

Featured Route For Orient Bay Ice and Mixed
Rock Climbing Photo: Cascade Falls in prime condition.  January 2008.

Cascade Falls WI3-4  North America : Canada : ... : Cascade Falls/Obsession Are...
This climb is an Orient Bay classic. Enormously fat ice with huge variation in steepness. There are so many variations to choose from, but farthest to the left tends to be more stepy and it gets more difficult and steep the further right you go. This route is perfect height for a 60m toprope and is a great place to bring beginners. You can set up at least 4 different TRs. This climb is also the site of clinics during the annual Nipigon Ice Fest.References: "Ice Climbs of the Lake Superior Re...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Orient Bay Ice and Mixed Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Rusk
From: Duluth, MN
May 27, 2008
This area is amazing for any level of climber. In addition to the climbs in Orient Bay, many of which are not listed, there are numerous ice and mixed lines in area. If you've done other climbs in this area please post them.
By Lou Hibbard
From: Eagan, MN
Apr 15, 2014
A great resource for finding more remote Orient Bay climbs in deep snow is Wes Bender's summary of GPS locations found on the Alpine Club of Canada Thunder Bay section website:
www.acctbay.ca/community_maps.php
By Lynn Evenson
Mar 16, 2017
Beaver Motel is great. We stayed in one of their new 600 sq ft cabins. Two queen beds, scads of floor space, functional kitchen, nice people. Highly recommended.

In mid-March, saw three other parties, none of them on our routes. Perfect.

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