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Orient Bay Ice and Mixed

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Cascade Falls/Obsession Area 
Ice Palace 
North End 
Pumping Station  
Reflection Wall/Amy R Area 
South End 

Orient Bay Ice and Mixed Rock Climbing 


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Location: 49.37341, -88.12958 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,404
Administrators: Dave Rone, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Aug 19, 2009
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Shawn rapping off Arjumand's Shroud after the firs...

Description 

Description
One of Canada's premiere winter climbing areas. Many high-quality lines.




Getting There 

Getting There
From Duluth take Hwy 61 north across the US border. Continue on 61 into Thunder Bay. From Thunder Bay, take Hwy 11 into Nipigon (motels, food, beer). To get to the climbs from Nipigon, continue on Hwy 11 for about 36 miles until you reach Trans-Canada Pipeline Station on the left. At that point, the prominent Glace Eclatante will be visible ahead. You're there.

References: "Ice Climbs of the Lake Superior Region" by Eric Landmann and Don Hynek, Granite Publishing

Websites: Climbing Central Beta Page,
Alpine Club of Canada, Thunder Bay Section: acctbay.ca./index.php

Climbing Season



Weather station 19.5 miles from here

36 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Orient Bay Ice and Mixed

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Orient Bay Ice and Mixed:
Tempest   WI2+     Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   Cascade Falls/Obsession Are...
Cascade Falls   WI3-4     Ice, 1 pitch, 130'   Cascade Falls/Obsession Are...
Obsession   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches, 180'   Cascade Falls/Obsession Are...
Sycho Icycho   WI2+     Ice, 1 pitch, 190'   Cascade Falls/Obsession Are...
10% Real   WI5     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 150'   Ice Palace
Mellow Yellow   WI3+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   South End
Andromeda Weeps   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches, 200'   North End
Tears of Joy   WI3+     Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   North End
Ranxerox Tangent   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   Ice Palace
Evil Des Sens   WI4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 55'   Ice Palace
Hully Gully   WI2+     Ice, 2 pitches, 140'   South End
Gomar Falls   WI3     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 260'   Pumping Station
Amy R   WI2+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   Reflection Wall/Amy R Area
Glace Eclatante   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   Pumping Station
Ice Invaders   WI2     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   Cascade Falls/Obsession Are...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Orient Bay Ice and Mixed

Featured Route For Orient Bay Ice and Mixed
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past the crux on the FA of Resolution, but yo...

Resolution M7  North America : Canada : ... : Reflection Wall/Amy R Area
This route trends up and right to reach the curtain of ice up high. It starts out pretty easy with the crux being a bulge in the wall as the good footholds disappear (between the 4th and 6th bolts) . The final rock moves before the transition to ice are also exciting, involving a big step right to thin footholds, slots, and hooking on the steepening wall. It's about 40 meters to the top of the route, 50 or so to the Reflection Wall rap anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Orient Bay Ice and Mixed Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Rusk
From: Duluth, MN
May 27, 2008
This area is amazing for any level of climber. In addition to the climbs in Orient Bay, many of which are not listed, there are numerous ice and mixed lines in area. If you've done other climbs in this area please post them.
By Lou Hibbard
From: Eagan, MN
Apr 15, 2014
A great resource for finding more remote Orient Bay climbs in deep snow is Wes Bender's summary of GPS locations found on the Alpine Club of Canada Thunder Bay section website:
www.acctbay.ca/community_maps.php