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Lost Highway Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Avalon World AKA Chong's Biway  S 
Cheech and Choss S 
Choss Boss  T 
Cross Your Mind S 
Heavy Duty AKA Moss Highway  T 
Lost Highway S 
Lost Your Mind TR 
Orgasmatron S 
Sleepwalkin' S 
Sweeping Beauty  S 
Wizard of Moss , The S 

Orgasmatron 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Serena Benson, 1999
Season: Not Winter
Page Views: 1,059
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Aug 5, 2006  with updates from Carl Schaefer

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Melissa Meyers enjoying easier terrain above the a...

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  • Description 

    This is a challenging route. Begin from the top of the pillar described below. Climb to a roof, then undercling left and pull around to the left side of a sharp arete. Climb straight up to where the angle eases, veer left, then back up and right to the 2-ring anchor at the top of the wall.

    NOTE: Bob D'Antonio's guidebook has Lost Highway and Orgasmatron switched in the photo. On the third pitch, Orgasmatron is to the left of Lost Highway.

    Per Carl Schaefer: in the 2nd edition of the D'Antonio guidebook, a correction now shows Orgasmatron to the left of the 3rd pitch of Lost Highway.

    Location 

    This route runs parallel to the final pitch of Lost Highway and begins from the common belay atop a large pillar. The Lost Highway Area is located at the far right side of the wall. Hike the West Trail to near its high point, and take a left branch that leads west to a large boulder perched on bare granite. Continue down to the north about 30 feet, down a short groove, and locate a 2-bolt anchor on a small and exposed ledge beneath a scrub juniper. Rappel 85 feet to a good ledge atop a pillar. The Orgasmatron may also be reached by climbing the first two pitches of Lost Highway (q.v.).

    Protection 

    9 bolts with a 2-bolt anchor at either end of the pitch.


    Photos of Orgasmatron Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The view is straight down the arete with Melissa j...
    The view is straight down the arete with Melissa j...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Melissa Meyers having just cleared the crux consid...
    Melissa Meyers having just cleared the crux consid...

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