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Organized Labor 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Dean Brault & Peter Noebels
Season: Shade Around Noon
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Sep 27, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Organized Labor. The steepness of the route is sh...

Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Organized Labor is an intriguing line that overhangs approximately 15ft. Begin with a strenuous, technical boulder problem to reach and surmount a dihedral. Nimbly move through featured choss into easier but still pumpy climbing to the chains.

As eluded to above portions of this route are choss. The section around bolts 3 and 4 is particularly suspect. My partner and I pulled off two softball-sized holds and eroded a key foot during an afternoon of attempts. Nevertheless after a couple of runs the rock quality wasn't an issue as I knew what to use and trust.

If I thought I had even the slightest chance of pulling the boulder problem at the start, I would definitely return to this line. For now this route is just another reason to train.

Location 

Organized Labor is located on the southeast face of Raven D, which is known as the Union Wall. To reach this route hike downhill past Ravens A through D on the northeast side as you would as reach El Curvo. At Raven D stay close to the wall. This wall sees shade starting around noon.

Protection 

Bolts to ring anchors. A stick clip should be considered as the first bolt is 15ft up and requires non-trivial climbing over suspect rock.


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By Mitch Beiser
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jun 19, 2017

I may be looking for a fun 5.12 that isn't in the orifice this summer. How does this one rank up there in quality? Any user feedback on El Cuervo?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 19, 2017

Only know of three people who have ever done it. Me,Dean Brault and Eddie Mofardin. Outrageous crux way up in the air. Unfortunately or fortunately there is a big rest to the right just before the crux sequence. Some shenanigans to get down too. It is a route you will remember doing. Super good stone too as it is overhanging and orange.
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 20, 2017

Just to be clear, EFR is talking about El Cuervo. I've personally never tried it but it looks totally epic. In addition to El Cuervo, I would suggest Reef of Rocks (Muscle Shoals, etc), Ravelin, The (Heartbreaker), and South Park (5.12 extension to Mr Hanky).
By jbak
Jun 20, 2017

Mitch... you might like Xtal Meth depending on your tolerance for choss. North facing shade and lots of other good climbs nearby. Only 7200 feet though. I particularly recommend The Nose for anyone going to Delta.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 21, 2017

I didn't realize you were asking about El Cuervo under Organized Labor. El Cuervo is epic and an experience that will stay with you. I do second some of those John suggests as well as Nevermore 5.12 and the four routes left of it. They may not be 12 but you will earn the onsights on them and they are shady pretty early. Head Doctor and Doctor's Orders are also shady early and allow you to warm up for other things headed for the shade.

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