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Organized Crime 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Paul Duval
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall (Winter climbing not available due to road closure)
Page Views: 697
Submitted By: BBQ on Jul 30, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

An epic summit for a confident 5.10 leader. I had the privilege of following one of the needles' more accomplished rock monkeys up this exceptionally aesthetic, and not too terribly difficult intermediate climb. After clinging tenaciously to a climb on Queen Pin known as Dairy Queen, which is listed as a 5.10b, Organized Climb offered me a fairly challenging, yet cruiser and, very enjoyable way to summit King Pin during the height of the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. Belaying a lead climber is much easier than Ten Pins climbs since you can stand close to the highway, and get gawked at by what seems to be hundreds of highly entertained tourists both in cars and motorcycles. My intrepid partner and I must have ended up in countless photographs and scrapbooks that day as we enjoyed a very doable climb and sat on the summit counting blue cars and pretending the motorcyclists were toys we could move up and down the highway with our fingertips. This created the ultimate classic moment for both of us, worthy of a passage straight from "Touch the Sky".

Location 

This is the route most people trip over as they make their way up the path to get to the starts of Tent Peg and Super Pin. As you pass by King Pin, look for a long crack in a bright orange streak (this is a route called Quartz Jester, to the right of this crack is a what appears to be a gully to nowhere. Belay from the trail and climb up into the gully until you get on top of a pedestal. Start traversing to your right, the first bolt is hard to find by once you've clipped in the rest of the bolts are obvious and placed together close enough to make this one of the few climbs in this area that can be called well protected. The only real runout is getting to the first bolt, the only real five ten move is getting past this first bolt. If you've convinced yourself that you'll never sit on top of one of these fabulous rock formations in the Ten Pins area, think again, if you can summit The Pawn, you can use this route to summit King Pin.

Protection 

Bring about eight quickdraws to do the climb and one shoulder length sling and three locking beaners to make a hanging belay station at a very nice set of anchor bolts.


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By Byron J. Hastings
From: Mystic, SD
Jul 30, 2009

F.A. by Paul Duval
By D Foster
Jun 9, 2010

I just did Quartz Jester last weekend and was more than a little dismayed to begin the upper slab only to see the route denigrated by the addition of two bolts. I assume from the route description above that the bolts were part of this route. Looking down from the anchors, Organized Crime looks like a fine route but come on, bolts were added to a historic and naturally protected climb that had demanded both competence and confidence for the sake of creating another bolted face climb that hardly stands out from any other bolted Needles face climb. In most cases I would say thanks for the effort of putting up a new route, but in this case I'll say no thanks.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Jul 8, 2013

We did both routes, Quartz Jester and Organized Crime, last weekend and I think Organized Crime does not intersect Quartz Jester. Organized Crime starts from the gully to the left of the crack of Quartz Jester (the description is little poor in describing this) and ascents the other side of King Pin (see picture of Dave Rone on the climb). That said, we did notice two bolts on the right of the finish slab of Quartz Jester (and they are close to the route). I have no idea what route these belong to (Conn Chimney?).
By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
Jul 8, 2013

Kris, you guys must have been on the Laptad-Prince Route (5.9) I think. Organized Crime is described as being right of Quartz. It does suck those two bolts were placed there. I never clipped them but sure as hell wanted to!
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Jul 8, 2013

Chris -- dang, I had no idea Laptad-Prince route even existed ! In that case, I stand corrected and agree with D Foster. The bolts on Organized Crime are temptingly close to Quartz Jester. We didn't clip them either but one could traverse few feet further and use them. Now I have to tell my buddies they climbed 5.9 instead of 5.10, ha!

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