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Organ Pipe Spire and Pipe Organ Spire
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Organ Pipe Spire 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 210', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1 PG13 [details]
FA: Old
Page Views: 884
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 26, 2007

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Description 

First off I soloed this route, so I was not dealing with rope drag. You may need to break up what I did in one pitch into 2.

P1. Start out climbing loose rock to a good crack and 2 great stopper placements. Pass 2 old pins the first of which held my body weight, the second I didn't touch. Pass a huge block and climb up into a chimney. At this point, place a large cam and go on the outside of the flared chimney/ow. There is no gear for the next 20-ish feet, but the climbing is not that difficult (large gear might protect it. I didn't have any and can't remember.). It appeared as if one could first climb up inside of the chimney and clip a knifeblade then downclimb and get on the outside so that the 20-ish feet were protected, but who knows how good the knifeblade is? Either way after running it out, you get to a good #3.5-4 Camalot crack. Scamper up to a ledge. Climb around big blocks and over loose rock to a chimney/tunnel in the rock. Enter. Chimney until you can squeeze through a hole onto the southside of the tower and then climb 5' more to the anchor and a ledge/stance, 190' 5.8+, C1.

P2. 20' of easy climbing leads to the summit. There is no anchor on top. Downclimb. (5.4)

Descent: rappel from the top of pitch one to the ground. The anchor consists of 3 pins one of which is drilled. I backed this up with a piece of rope someone had left slung around a large horn/pinnacle.

Location 

This route climbs the north side of the spire and starts about 20' left (east) of the start for 'Pipe Organ Spire-Southeast'. The route climbs the major crack system closest to Pipe Organ Spire.

Protection 

Standard desert rack, 2 x #3.5 and #4 old Camalot and one old #5 Camalot or equivalent, 2 ropes, No pins or hammer it goes clean, webbing for the anchor.


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By Peter Blank
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
May 10, 2014

So maybe I'm kinda fragile, but the rap anchor is pretty bogus. We downclimbed the route about 30 feet and made a two stopper anchor to rappel from. Climb goes at 5.9ish and is really good!
By Paul S
From: Fruita, CO
May 11, 2014

Yeah, that anchor is sketchy. It's possible to scramble up and over to get to the anchors of Pipe Dream and rap that route. The main downside is it puts you on the other side of the tower from where this route starts.
By Airbiscuit
May 12, 2014

Getting to the Pipe Dream anchor is sketchy too. "Aces & Eights" is a much better way off that side. Good ledges on the way down 3 raps with one seventy meter.

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