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Organ Pipe Spire - The Weird Fun  

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: J.S & P.S
Season: Spring, Winter, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 608
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on Sep 23, 2010

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Three of the four routes on the Northwest faces of...

Description 

This was a new addition to Organ Pipe Spire, done in the fall of 2009. Eyeball it up from the Rim above Sentinel Spire. Scramble up to the gap separating The Pipe Organ and The Organ Pipe (this is also the start of two other routes on these two formations) routes. There are three crack systems on this face. Move over to the third one on the climbers left and salivate at the base of an ugly chinmey.

P1: Grovel, thrutch, and dust your way up the vertical garbage chute above. Work you way up the initial thirty feet (5.10) to where the climbing eases a bit and then on to either a squeeze through the hole (immpossible for fatties like me)or up through the overhang - which is much easier that it looks. Climb up the ramp (5.4) and belay at the ledge from hard to get natural anchors.

P2: Climb up the super chossy pedestal and into the Sweet Chimney. Climb for 60' without gear (5.8 PG-13) double up your pieces in the lone crack and then fire up the remaining 20' and onto the sketchy slab for another 30' (5.5 R/X)) to a great ledge and another natural anchor.

P3: Take turns climbing the remaing 10' to the summit on over and down to the original anchors from the Carter Route. (5.9 PG-13)

Location 

Drop in at the Organ Pipes Overlook (you need a seventy meter which barely makes it - the knot need to be a the edge) scramble down, around, and over to the notch between the two towers. You can also reach it from the Sentinel Spire drop in.

You need a two ropes to make it down the original Carter route.

Protection 

Single Friends from a #1 - #4. Single Camalots from a #0.5 - #5. Long runners / tag line.


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