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Organ Grinder T 

Organ Grinder 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bill Westbay, Larry Derby, and Mike Weiss.
Page Views: 630
Submitted By: Ted Baker on Feb 4, 2015

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Organ Grinder, September 2010

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


p1. Climb the crack in the cave to a ledge. Place a cam and head out left into the great sparse gear chimney to anchors nearing the top of the pillar/block (keep your back to the pillar seems best). p2. Climb down and right to the flaring deep awkward good hands and feet through the offwidth crux. There used to be a tree at top for an anchor that is likely dead now. Some bolts are needed for the last anchor if none have been placed (else it'll be pretty awkward anchoring). If there are none then to descend go left (east) to the gully and upon nearing the bottom keep traversing back toward the climb.


Looking at the Organ from the Big Bend bus stop it is the obvious line on the lower cliff band about halfway between the east end of the Organ and NE buttress of Angels Landing.


#3 Camalots (3-4+), a couple #2 and at least one or two #4 and maybe a #5. A couple smaller up high in chimney or run it out more.

Photos of Organ Grinder Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Inside the Grinder - Photo credit Joe Stern
Inside the Grinder - Photo credit Joe Stern

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