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The Fin
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Andrology T 
CG's Naked Fun Time S 
Dynamometer T,S 
East of Eden S,TR 
Edge of Time S,TR 
Lost Time T,S 
Oreivatis Rex T 
Slabbed Up-Side da Head S 
Unknown S 

Oreivatis Rex 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: unknown?
Page Views: 369
Submitted By: Monomaniac on May 13, 2017

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Exiting the flake at the horizontal pod. Photo:...

Description 

Note: this is the "unknown" route left of Andrology on the west face of The Fin (referred to as "15 Project (?)" in the Gillett guidebook). I've taken the liberty of naming it "Oreivatis Rex" based on my ascent today. If there has been an earlier redpoint of this line, let me know and I'd be happy to correct the name.

This beautiful wall of steep crimps is guarded by an unfortunate band of exfoliating choss. The rock in the business is stellar, but you have to wade through some junk to get there. Fortunately the holds through the chossy section are all jams and slopey, hueco jugs. The quality of the upper panel makes up for the mungy start, but getting through it is a bit nerve wracking.

Begin up the creaky flake system a few feet from the left end of the wall. Mostly solid hand jams (and a bit of groveling) lead to a horizontal pod system about 20' up. Traverse right here, around the arête, then follow more pods straight up, then angling right, to reach the first bolt. A lower-angle section with big edges leads to the steep headwall. The edges get smaller and farther apart the higher you climb up this stunning panel, culminating in some long, cruxy reaches just below the summit.

Location 

This is the left-most bolted line on the west wall of The Fin.

Protection 

The flake system eats up hand-sized cams, as does the horizontal pod. You may want some slings here to manage rope drag. The rest is well-protected with bolts, but there is currently no anchor (there is one bolt just below the lip, and two 3/8" studs with no hangers or washers/nuts--it would be very easy to add a proper anchor to these studs). It's pretty easy to scramble up the back and rap down to clean your gear.


Photos of Oreivatis Rex Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway through the crux of "Oreivatis Rex&quo...
Midway through the crux of "Oreivatis Rex&quo...

Comments on Oreivatis Rex Add Comment
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By Jim Redo
Sep 4, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

I equipped the two studs with hangers yesterday. I spaced the rings so there are two leaver biners.
By EJM
Sep 10, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

Climb to the last bolt, and step right 1' to the crack feature =11d, or go up and slightly left =12b.

Would be a great route if the stone on the first half wasn't garbage.

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