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Broughton Bluff

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(1) North Face 
(2) Hanging Gardens 
(3) Red Wall 
(4) Spring Rock 
(5) Bat Wall 
(6) Berlin Wall 
(7) Jungle Cliff 
(8) New Frontier 

Broughton Bluff Rock Climbing 


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Location: 45.5414, -122.38 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 84,266
Administrators: Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Forecast:
Today

44° | 32°
Monday

37° | 30°
Tuesday

38° | 27°
Wednesday

33° | 27°
Thursday

31° | 31°
Friday

44° | 37°
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Kashmir Red Wall, Broughton Bluff

Description 

Comprised of around a dozen cliffs on the outskirts of Portland, Broughton Bluff provides easy access for the local urban climber. Many quality routes ranging from 5.6 topropes to 5.12 leads on Broughton’s jumbled basalt cliffs are available for climbers of all abilities.

Climbing is possible all year at Broughton but can be difficult in the winter due to damp and soggy conditions, unless you can climb 5.12. Late Spring, Summer, and Fall are best.

Getting There 

Broughton Bluff is located at the mouth of the Columbia Gorge near the town of Troutdale. Take I-84 East from Portland to the Lewis & Clark State Park exit, turn left at the stop sign and drive under the railroad bridge, then park in the parking lot on the left. Take the trail leading towards the hillside and follow it up for a few hundred meters to the cliffs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.2 miles from here

109 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',56],['2 Stars',33],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',5],['5.9',13],['5.10',25],['5.11',23],['5.12',27],['5.13',10],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Broughton Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Broughton Bluff:
Edges and Ledges   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   (2) Hanging Gardens
The Sickle   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   (2) Hanging Gardens
Classic Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   (3) Red Wall
Gandalf's Grip   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   (1) North Face
Minimancer   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   (7) Jungle Cliff
Sheer Stress   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   (3) Red Wall
Red Eye   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   (3) Red Wall
Green Scare   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   (7) Jungle Cliff
Superstition   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   (5) Bat Wall
Gorilla Love Affair   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   (7) Jungle Cliff
Ecocide   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   (7) Jungle Cliff
Pinhead   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (3) Red Wall
Necromancer   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 100'   (7) Jungle Cliff
Dracula   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   (5) Bat Wall
Kashmir   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (3) Red Wall
Heart of Darkness   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   (7) Jungle Cliff
Bloodline   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   (5) Bat Wall
Bad Omen   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   (5) Bat Wall
Oracle   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 95'   (7) Jungle Cliff
Firestorm   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   (7) Jungle Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Broughton Bluff

Featured Route For Broughton Bluff
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Bat Wall Topo

Sutured by the Vampress 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  OR : Portland & The Gorge : ... : (5) Bat Wall
A great addition to the Bat Wall, Sutured by the Vampress follows Manson Family to the bolt after the crux and then cuts right through two more bolts. Head up into the beautiful, thin seam via an initial bolt of juggy and fun climbing. Then things get hard. The crux of the route is getting to the anchors, figuring out the seam, slopers, and where to set your right hand before a good-old lunge. Sutured offers a much more exciting finish than MFR and is just as quality - Great position and grea...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of Broughton Bluff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Wall, left side
Red Wall, left side
Rock Climbing Photo: View from under Sheer Stress of the belay zone in ...
View from under Sheer Stress of the belay zone in ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful day at Broughton Bluff
Beautiful day at Broughton Bluff
Rock Climbing Photo: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
BETA PHOTO: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
BETA PHOTO: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
BETA PHOTO: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom of Jungle Wall
BETA PHOTO: Bottom of Jungle Wall

Comments on Broughton Bluff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dannyr
Feb 14, 2006
Many areas in Oregon have poison oak, but Broughton is thick with the stuff. Watch out for it!
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 14, 2006
Also, don't leave your stuff in the car. There have been numberous break-ins here with alot of gear getting stolen in the past. I myself have seen broken windows in the parking lot. It's sad but true. Just take everything with you or lock it up out of sight.
By doggy
Sep 9, 2008
WOW!! This is one of the best climbing areas in Portland. It offers a little bit of everything on good solid rock. The routes are interesting and fun...and although some may take a bit to figure out it'll only make you stronger.
By judee
Apr 5, 2014
When my wife and I were dating back in the mid 1950's, we used to climb to the top of the bluff via a path through some large boulders. At some time since then that area slewed off and is now called the Red cliff, or something like that. Back then, the park was just sand and gravel, and blackberry brush. People came there to shoot guns up against the cliff.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Oct 8, 2015
If you're new to basalt, or otherwise unfamiliar with the crag, warm up on some easier routes. This place is infamously sandbagged, especially at the lower grades.