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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Ordinary People 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, 4/88
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: Michael Amato on Nov 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 MORE INFO >>>


Use the same start as Children of a Lesser Grade, but step right and follow a slick slab along a white water streak past two bolts to the anchors. It's a bit run-out to the first bolt, so be ready or just stick-clip it. This has good stone, but the entrance holds are starting to get polished.


[4] bolts + anchor.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 30, 2016
By Frances Fierst
May 22, 2005

The crux is getting off the ground. A bit tricky, but safe if your belayer spots you. You can clip the first bolt of Children of a Lesser Grade (use a long runner) to cut down on the run out to the first bolt.
By Michael Amato
Jun 3, 2005

It looks like a third bolt has been added up high.
By kirkadirka
From: Boulder
Jun 5, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I believe there are now 4-5 bolts on this one as of 5/27/06.
By Andrew Ingraham
From: Conifer
Jun 19, 2006

There are three bolts on this route. The runout to the first bolt isn't that bad, not much for the hands but huge sloping footholds. The crux for me was at the third bolt.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
May 29, 2007

This is a fun climb and a great slab warm up.
By colin tuck
From: Moab
Jun 16, 2008

You can basically step down if your balance starts to slip on the first move. Above that is easy until above the first somewhat runout bolt.
By Scott Beguin
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jun 1, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This climb is harder than it looks, especially if slab is not your thing.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2009

Fun route that is harder than it looks. Crux is getting off the ground and then around the 3 bolt. If you get off the ground, the run out is quite easy to the first bolt. Good climb!
By Ryan Raef
From: Texas
Aug 8, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

Definitely seemed harder than 5.9 if you're not a slab climber.
Apr 10, 2011

Funny, the crux start move on this is the same crux move on the 10c to the left. I'm not sure why one was given 10c and the other 5.9.
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

There are only 3 bolts w/ 2 bolt anchor.
By Mike Smyth
From: Spartanburg, SC
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A new hanger was added a bit lower by Bob a few weeks ago to take some of the bite out of that high first one.
By Lee Jenkins
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There are 4 bolts as of Bob D's Anchor replacement weekend May 2012. Total upgrade including a new 1st bolt and Mussy Hook anchors.
By Forrest L.
Jul 7, 2014

One of the anchor hooks is missing its gate.
By Izzy K.
From: Boulder, CO
May 30, 2016

One of the anchor hooks is still missing. You can easily move to the left and lower off the hooks of Children Of A Lesser Grade to avoid lowering off one bolt.

The run-out is only up to the first bolt; the movements are tricky, and it's worth stick-clipping or at least having an attentive spotter....

I felt this route (5.9) and Children Of A Lesser Grade (10c) were of comparable difficulty. Both were fun! Worth getting on versus waiting in line for a "classic".

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