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Bad Banana Dreams S 
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Concrete Jungle S 
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Mistah Kurtz - he dead. S 
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Opposable Thumbs Required S 
Oranguterror S 
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Your Bones Will Crack T 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Pitch I R. Suggett, R. Magner, P. Curry Pitch II Marilla Lamb and Mitch Yaggie
New Route: Yes
Season: May to October
Page Views: 2,295
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Jul 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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This sport route is even better as the thin edges have lost the lichen. The second clip is important! This is the first pitch crux and if you peel after pulling rope prior to the clip...there is a possibility of hitting something hard on the fall. The stance is what we all thought was the best option, but careful! As of 6/15/14 there is now a second pitch. The 11d moves are on this pitch and come at the second to last bolt. The first pitch is still an 11a. You can do the entire thing as one pitch if you have forearms like Popeye OR go to the shared anchor with "Coco's Lichen It" as before. So...

Pitch I Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings. This anchor is shared with the crack just to the left. Climb up the arete then left on to the face. The line is mostly straight up until the last bolt when it turns left. There is a questionable hold here that makes the move left easy. It is now "Xed".

Pitch II Traverse right from the last bolt of pitch I and head up and toward the wall (which looks doable...check it out on the top rope) and then straight up, clipping the last of six bolts before reaching the two bolt anchor. A 60 meter rope will suffice. This pitch was a collaborative effort! Early in the 2014 season R. Magner and I bolted and cleaned it a bit. The lateness of the day and the rocks wizzing by our heads sent us home with the job unfinished. Later, Alexie and Drew finished cleaning it. Then in late Aug. the FFA (see coments below).


This face is just right of a right facing dihedral with the crack called "Coco's Lichen It." This is the second to last of the routes in the "Congo Corner."


Quick draws to shuts (Pitch 1) and M.Rap hangers on the second pitch.

Photos of Oranguterror Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Red is Oranguterror Yellow is Coco's Lichen It Blu...
BETA PHOTO: Red is Oranguterror Yellow is Coco's Lichen It Blu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marilla Lamb cleanly linking the two pitches (FA a...
Marilla Lamb cleanly linking the two pitches (FA a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Second bolt on this picture is the crux. The edges...
BETA PHOTO: Second bolt on this picture is the crux. The edges...
Rock Climbing Photo: Oranguterror. As long as you don't blow the second...
Oranguterror. As long as you don't blow the second...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rap bolters are weak
Rap bolters are weak

Comments on Oranguterror Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 8, 2017
By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Jul 23, 2009

Absolutely covered in lichen. Will become more like 10d with more ascents.

Real FA: Roy Suggett, Rich Magner, Pat Curry
By LeMiz Israel
Sep 14, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Super classic. Loved it!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Out of curiosity, was this bolted on lead? The pic seems to indicate otherwise, just checking. Is the rock too chossy down low to avoid the R rating? Or is it artificially runout?
By Roy Suggett
Oct 18, 2010

Thanks Boissal for checking us out! The crack to the left was put up on lead. As we rapped down the face we noticed how good the rock was and gave it a go. The first bolt was easy but the second was really hard and nobody had at the time a brush to deal with the we went back up the crack and plotted the moves and where the best bolt placements might be. The second clip is the crux. We debated long and hard but decided in the late hours of the day to place the bolt higher than we liked but on a more comforatable stance. And so it goes with the Jungle...all cracks are from the ground up, the faces are mostly combo.s of both practices.
By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Nov 14, 2010

The reason this climb is R rated is that I almost cracked my head open at the second bolt. It happened during my first lead on this route, I was super gripped, and not thinking clearly. I was fully extended, trying to clip for like 30 seconds, then I missed it, and took a wild windmill swing that not only brought me very close to the ground, but brought my head very close to an edge. This mistake can be avoided by almost any clear minded individual. Just pull on gear, and try again. Don't be a purist and get yourself killed. I actually wouldn't give this climb an R rating, even though I almost smashed my head up on it.
By rich magner
From: Joshua Tree,CA
Nov 20, 2010

This one is a little spicy to reach the first bolt. PG-13 perhaps? Yes, Pat did almost crack his head, but was super out of position. He's hard-headed though. The rock would've been dust.

The decision to top - rope, work potential routes, find placements, then drill- came out of necessity. The dichotomous nature of this formation ranges from stellar to nasty and rotten. A TR allowed us to test the rock, check for 'booby traps', and avoid face-fulls of gravity powered rhyolite goulash.

By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Nov 24, 2010

Thanks Rich, I appreciate the support. Anyhow, I tried to post a video of some of the"choss" that consisted of a 300 lb. rock being pealed off the top of one of the better routes. So, I will say that I support the top down bolting methods.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Awesome face line, sustained, technical, big moves, clean rock...

I can now comment on my comment: not R, although the first 2 clips are definitely not something you'd want to fumble. I started on the arete to the right and didn't breathe much until I latched the big shelf up and right of the 2nd bolt. Think bouldery climbing on small crimps/sidepulls with lots of body tension and a mediocre clipping hold. Did I mention it is an AWESOME LINE???
The top keeps coming at you and even though the holds get better the occasional slopper will keep you on your toes.

EDIT: one vote for extending this beast to the TOP OF THE TOWER!
By rich magner
From: Joshua Tree,CA
Oct 20, 2011

On it...when it thaws out!
By Roy Suggett
Jun 15, 2014

We extended it! There is an 11d second pitch OR link them if you are some kind of hard ass!
By grk10vq
Jun 15, 2014

link them or it didn't happen.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 28, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Use long runners on the last 2 bolts of the 1st pitch (6 and 7 I believe) and go for the linkup! The traverse is a bit intimidating but the bolting is super safe. Expect to clip at your waist as the best holds are pretty high up. Do your best to catch a rest after the rightward shuffle as the crux requires some hard pulling and very sequential climbing not suitable for pumped forearms.

We cleaned a lot of blocks of the right arete and sent down a massive column (I could barely slide the smaller piece on the ground). It doesn't change the crux one bit but makes the finish less terrifying since you can actually touch the arete without carpet bombing the belayer. The two Xed blocks below the crux are still there and felt surprisingly solid.
There is also a good candidate for removal on P1, it's Xed and has a sad face on its side...
By Kurt Howes
Sep 2, 2014

link-up has been FFA'd (OS) by A. Lemieux and seconded by yours truly. We both prefered starting in the crack and then moving right after the first clip and didn't think it was "R" at all. Did we miss the crux off the ground that warrants an 11+ grade? The whole route is 11.a, possibly 11.b, especially because the choss at the end has been cleaned up. It doesn't really need runners; regular draws suffice. What an excellent climb! Try the new 12- we installed to the right that finishes on this extension. It's called "Ape Shit" and has been freed by A. Lemieux.
By Roy Suggett
Sep 2, 2014

If you start on the right or the arete with square cut stances and then move out on to the face thus avoiding the route to the left (see topo) you will have a spicier start. Congratulations to Alex and Kurt! And I look forward to experiencing your good work to the right! That wall has been begging for a line. Thankx!
By Roy Suggett
Sep 5, 2014

Sorry guys. Looks like another pair of good climbers beat you to the FA (see photo and comments).
By Michael Buchanan
Aug 10, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Super fun with a great couple of crux moves. There is a loose jug block at around the 6th bolt.
By Roy Suggett
Jul 8, 2017

That aforementioned "X" block near the first anchor has been crowbarred free. The stance for this first anchor is now much improved!

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