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5.9 climb the corner 15' to the cruxy roof, pull the small roof up to a fixed nut. Continue up the crack then move on slabish chicken heads up to ledge.
Belay out of the crack at top of bushy ledge. Continue up the corner past a loose-looking chockstone but feels stable, slab out right up to another small roof, pull the roof to a very awkward/dirty chimney or out right in a crack, grass at top and finish on two bolts and one piton, rap the route with two double ropes.
This is toward the right middle of the wall, in a small corner start. There is a bigger corner to its right..thats not it.
gear to 3"
By Mat Brunton
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hard crux for a 5.9 pulling the first roof. Good options for pro before ease the pressure. The rest of the route is considerably easier than getting over the first roof, which I consider the move that makes this climb the most difficult 5.9 on The Monolith. Finishes on very large grassy ledge with gear belay in a crack or two bolt ASCA anchor with rings on the right edge of ledge.