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Orangutan Overhang 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Luke to Zuke on Jul 17, 2008

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Cool pitch

Description 

5.9 climb the corner 15' to the cruxy roof, pull the small roof up to a fixed nut. Continue up the crack then move on slabish chicken heads up to ledge.
Belay out of the crack at top of bushy ledge. Continue up the corner past a loose-looking chockstone but feels stable, slab out right up to another small roof, pull the roof to a very awkward/dirty chimney or out right in a crack, grass at top and finish on two bolts and one piton, rap the route with two double ropes.

Location 

This is toward the right middle of the wall, in a small corner start. There is a bigger corner to its right..thats not it.

Protection 

gear to 3"


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By Mat Brunton
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Having done this route a few times now, I've confirmed it as one of my favorite routes (considering it's two excellent and long pitches with easy access).

There's now a fixed nut at the first, cruxy roof.

The gear belay crack takes #1-#3 camalots, with #2-3 working the best. Two cams (2x#2 or #2 & #3) works perfect. You can use #2's on the second pitch so I'd recommend carrying up two #2's and a #3, or three #2's. If you use the rappel anchor at the climber's right edge of the grass ledge it will expose the follower to a huge and dangerous swing, unless you protect the traverse, so it's important to bring the larger gear even though you don't use it on the first pitch.

The second pitch is as good or better than the first. You can rappel directly down from the second pitch anchors to the rap anchors on climber's right of grass ledge at top of P1 with a SINGLE 70m.

Nice ASCA anchors with double rings for both anchors (use gear belay for P1 to bring up follower, and then walk over, or protect traverse across grass ledge to bolted anchor), but one hanger is a bit loose on each.

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