|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Grant Hiskes, Errett Allen, Ken Yager, Marylyn Wisner, 5-1984.|
|Submitted By:||Blitzo on Mar 19, 2007|
|Comments on Orange Zig Zag||Add Comment|
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By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jun 27, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
|THE climb to do at The Stumps. Fun, fun, fun.|
By Kellen Holt
Apr 2, 2012
Climbed this today. The climb stayed in the shade the entire time we were at the stumps, although later in the summer season I could see it getting some sun. Rock was cooooold (there were icicles on an adjacent route), and I lost feeling in my hands pretty quick, but the route was still excellent. The first step left into the horizontal part of the crack is a classic move, coming out from the pod and stepping out onto the vertical face with a straight drop below you. Thankfully the pocketed nature of the volcanic tuft provides lots of key footholds and the handjams are perfect (when I could actually feel them!).
One note - A #3 camalot or similar is helpful in a few places on this climb. Also wider gear makes building an anchor at the top much easier, although I was able to get by with a medium/large nut, a #2 camalot, and an alien in a pod.