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Orange You Lichen It? T 

Orange You Lichen It? 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Cory Fleagle (Sept. 2011)
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 688
Submitted By: Cor on May 4, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Up high.

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  • Description 

    This is a nice little route uphill from areas. It has fun but hard to read climbing. An onsight would be proud! Start in small crack (between orange lichen streaks - crux) and continue up the wall. Pull over a small bulge/overhang and angle up face near right hand arete.

    The crux crack feels a bit committing because of the ground being close and a lack of gear. There is a really good stopper placement (long reach) that does protect the crux, although it is hard to reach up and clip it in.... The stopper is fixed. A stick might be nice to clip it? All in all, it is not too bad though.

    There is a bolted anchor on a ledge most of the way up the wall.


    Ascend gully between Vampire / Black Widow, continue up faint trail to a small wall. This wall can be seen from the road (look for bright orange lichen).


    Standard rack to a #2 Camalot max. Two #0.75s are good. Offset cams work well also. A gray/purple Metolius cam works well in a horzontal near the top.

    Photos of Orange You Lichen It? Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Wayne Crill on starting crack.
    BETA PHOTO: Wayne Crill on starting crack.

    Comments on Orange You Lichen It? Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Cor
    May 4, 2012

    There is another route on this wall to the left of orange you lichen it.

    The other climb (not sure who did it) goes up face with three bolts,
    then goes to trad out some small overhangs. At the top, there is a one bolt anchor. You can back it up with a cam, then scramble right to my anchors to descend, or walk off top.

    This climb is 5.10ish.
    By Wayne Crill
    From: an Altered State
    May 7, 2012
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    I Lichened it! Another great find HC. Worthwhile to tromp up the gully for these two fun lines.
    By Steve Sangdahl
    From: eldo sprngs,co
    May 7, 2012

    Cor, The other 3 bolt route was put up by Bob Horan. 5.10 sounds about right. Not sure who he did this with. Steve S.
    By Liz Donley
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 9, 2012
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

    The route is very fun. The core muscles inside of my rib cage were sore for days after I TR'd it; however, I actually don't think that Cor and Wayne can tell the difference between 11- and 11+ sometimes.... I think it's harder!

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