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Orange Sunshine area
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Orange Sunshine 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dale Farnham 1974
Page Views: 3,320
Submitted By: andyf on Feb 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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John starting up Orange Sunshine.

  • Temporary Closure (From April 28, 2017) MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    Orange Sunshine hooked me on climbing. Of course, I'd already been playing with the hook; I'd blown off much of my senior year of college bouldering at the UW Rock. But on a warm summer evening in 1986, I discovered there was more to climbing than contriving moves on concrete. The rock was bathed in the light of an amazing sunset. Orange lichen glowed around the splitter sweep of the crack. The sound of the river and the strong scent of sagebrush carried up from the canyon below. I was toproping my first 5.10, and I was elated and surprised as I moved higher and higher without falling. Eventually I did fall, but I was just as satisfied when I figured out the sequence of overhanging finger locks and footwork that ends the route. When I awoke the next morning, Orange Sunshine was the first thing I thought of.

    The crack begins as a flake that you can alternately jam and lieback, with good edges for the feet. The first crux (5.10-) comes below a prominent break, where the crack narrows to finger pods. You can cop a rest at the break, but then the true crux starts: a gently overhanging flake, followed by pumpy finger locks with small edges and smears for the feet. An insecure mantle provides a final surprise.

    Location 

    Obvious splitter crack on a recessed column wall. Look for the orange lichen.

    Protection 

    Gear to two inches; upper crack eats wireds.


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    Comments on Orange Sunshine Add Comment
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    By Andy Laakmann
    Site Landlord
    From: Bend, OR
    May 1, 2012

    Great route. Up until the break the climbing is straightforward (5.9+/10-). At the break, you get some jugs to rest on before heading up through the crux. Good fingerlocks and poor feet are the name of the game here.

    Standard double rack up to #2 camalot. I was surprised at the top... the nuts seemed fiddly and I ended up placing small camalots in pods.
    By brl
    From: Washington, D.C.
    Oct 16, 2012

    Good route, fun and fair for the grade. The feet actually seemed pretty good most of the way, even through the crux section. The top out feels a bit insecure but protects fine. Removed two lethargic rattlesnakes from the base of the route. They might've been living in the cave to the right of the climb. One of them returned later in the day.
    By geoff georges
    From: Seattle, Wa.
    Apr 24, 2017
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    definitely one of the classics in Wa. It is a good introduction to cracks at the grade because the bulk of the route is more like 10a, with a few finger locking crux moves. A variety of small cams work at the top, but it is a game of pick the right one quickly before you pump out and save space for your fingers.
    Also much harder on a hot day.

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