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John starting up Orange Sunshine.
Orange Sunshine hooked me on climbing. Of course, I'd already been playing with the hook; I'd blown off much of my senior year of college bouldering at the UW Rock. But on a warm summer evening in 1986, I discovered there was more to climbing than contriving moves on concrete. The rock was bathed in the light of an amazing sunset. Orange lichen glowed around the splitter sweep of the crack. The sound of the river and the strong scent of sagebrush carried up from the canyon below. I was toproping my first 5.10, and I was elated and surprised as I moved higher and higher without falling. Eventually I did fall, but I was just as satisfied when I figured out the sequence of overhanging finger locks and footwork that ends the route. When I awoke the next morning, Orange Sunshine was the first thing I thought of.
The crack begins as a flake that you can alternately jam and lieback, with good edges for the feet. The first crux (5.10-) comes below a prominent break, where the crack narrows to finger pods. You can cop a rest at the break, but then the true crux starts: a gently overhanging flake, followed by pumpy finger locks with small edges and smears for the feet. An insecure mantle provides a final surprise.
Obvious splitter crack on a recessed column wall. Look for the orange lichen.
Gear to two inches; upper crack eats wireds.
BETA PHOTO: Orange Sunshine.
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
May 1, 2012
Great route. Up until the break the climbing is straightforward (5.9+/10-). At the break, you get some jugs to rest on before heading up through the crux. Good fingerlocks and poor feet are the name of the game here.
Standard double rack up to #2 camalot. I was surprised at the top... the nuts seemed fiddly and I ended up placing small camalots in pods.
From: Washington, D.C.
Oct 16, 2012
Good route, fun and fair for the grade. The feet actually seemed pretty good most of the way, even through the crux section. The top out feels a bit insecure but protects fine. Removed two lethargic rattlesnakes from the base of the route. They might've been living in the cave to the right of the climb. One of them returned later in the day.