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Orange Sunshine S 
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When Good Books Go Bad TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Orange Sunshine 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Let Me Know
Season: Any
Page Views: 4,855
Submitted By: mschlocker on Aug 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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BETA PHOTO: Finishing the first, harder, crux move on Orange S...

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Face climb starts on classic Mission Gorge polished grey slickrock and finishes on classic Mission Gorge sticky orange rock requiring delicate moves. Apparently going left at the third bolt is slightly easier. I would recommend straight up, bolt to bolt.

I have heard that there was a variant of LSD enjoyed by our troops in Vietnam back in that time known as Orange Sunshine. I have no idea if those who named this climb were aware of that, but it is an interesting fact.


Middle Earth area. Head up the trail to the Middle Earth sport climbing area. Up the steps, and veer right, in a canyon by The Overhangs. You will see an obvious orange wall on the left side with some bolts.


4 shiny bolts with rap anchor.

Photos of Orange Sunshine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning sunshine on Orange Sunshine.
BETA PHOTO: Morning sunshine on Orange Sunshine.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy setting up TR
Jeremy setting up TR
Rock Climbing Photo: Rebecca Manley on the second crux move of Orange S...
BETA PHOTO: Rebecca Manley on the second crux move of Orange S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rebecca Manley moving off the high right foot--the...
BETA PHOTO: Rebecca Manley moving off the high right foot--the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Thomas Nowotny contemplating the second crux on Or...
Thomas Nowotny contemplating the second crux on Or...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling through the final small face move (5.9ish)...
BETA PHOTO: Pulling through the final small face move (5.9ish)...
Rock Climbing Photo: Making the high step and reach for the traverse mo...
BETA PHOTO: Making the high step and reach for the traverse mo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Orange Sunshine (or in this case, Orange Shadowlin...
BETA PHOTO: Orange Sunshine (or in this case, Orange Shadowlin...

Comments on Orange Sunshine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2008

This is the best face climb in MG, IMHO. For one thing, it isn't mostly over slick grey rock. The orange patina provides a nice bite for the shoes. Also, it has a rather nice sequence on tiny holds, requiring balance and some smearing. The left variation is at least a solid .10b.

Orange Sunshine, Yellow Sunshine, Blue Barrel and their progenitor, Purple Microdot, were all forms of LSD in pill form, available into the early '80s, not that I would know anything about that.
By Woodchuck ATC
Nov 9, 2008

Route looks great, even if NOT on some Purple Thunder 650mcg acid. I'd say the more Mellow Yellow 250 , Orange Sunshine 350's would be a better choice if you don't want to get your freak on mid crux. But then again, if your brain thinks you are a fly on the wall, maybe you can climb like one too. Peace out.
By ChadC
From: San Diego CA
Feb 17, 2013

We set up TR on this to give it a try. Thought it was a 10c from the Topo we had. Tough climb but is one of the only walls in mission gorge that you can actually smear on.

To the right of it there is a nice little 5.5 or so flake you can free solo up to set a TR. I have heard there is a way to scrabble up the back side to the bolt anchors also.
By Coon
Jun 30, 2013

This felt a lot easier than Black Rider (11b), but bolt to bolt is indeed MUCH harder than bailing left. Going straight up from third bolt is actually pretty difficult involving a big deadpoint from tiny sharp hand holds and smeared feet. Bailing left to the nice ledges is more 5.9ish and would probably put the route low 5.10 because of the opening move.
By Mackenan Grassi
Jul 2, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Staying right of the bolts definitely gives the full value experience, though the left rock-over move is pretty fun too. Highly recommend trying both variations at the third bolt.

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