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New Policy Wall
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One To The First Power T 
Orange Prickadilly S,TR 
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This Ain't No Place For You Algebra T 
Traditional Policy T,TR 

Orange Prickadilly 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gus Glitch??
Season:  Summer (Afternoon) Winter (Morning)
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 15, 2011

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4 bolts, sharp rocks

Description 

Start in the gully (hopefully the briers won't eat you)and follow the bolted line. This climb consists of sharp pockets and vertical cracks on which you can lay back.

At the top you have the option to gun it to the anchor direct (harder) or climb out right and traverse back left to the anchor (easier but run-out/heady).

Location 

This route is located right of New Policy (5.10d) on New Policy Wall. Climb up the gully (may have briers in the summer)to start your climb. You can stem to get the first draw pre-clipped but it really shouldn't be to bad if you are a solid 5.11 climber (if you can't stem up and clip, there is usually a wooden stick clip around).

Protection 

Three bolts to a rusted cold shuts anchor that can be backed up with gear.


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By Andrew Kucera
Nov 27, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

very thin sharp as hell crimpers, glue in bolt shuts. no bueno...pg13

remember crowder's rock sucks, don't fall on lead.
By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Ridgway, CO
Jan 26, 2012

Glue in bolts are a marked improvement over what was there before. Whip with confidence.
By Bennett Harris
From: Charlotte, NC
Jan 28, 2012

I think this route is called "Orange Prickadilly" I was talking to Gus a few weeks ago and he described it to the tee and said that was what it was called.
By Eduardo Ramirez
From: Columbia, SC
Feb 11, 2012

google.com/products/catalog?q=...
By wes calkins
Dec 28, 2012

This route is good for the length. the movement all seemed fairly secure. I was able to get a few fist jams in some fissures and get depumped about half way thru the route.
By Alex Darnell
Aug 13, 2017

Climbed this route today unaware that it was a 5.11-. Buddy and I decided to give her a try, Lots of thorns at the base but easy to get around. first three bolts are fairly tame, the last bolt was a challenge. was able to on site it with some good arm pump. Definatly helps if you are taller,

Bolts have a small bit of rust, left anchor at the top looks fairly new and the right anchor is solid.

rock is still very sharp and rough on the hands, either go super early in the morning or go in the afternoon once the sun has gone to the other side of the mountain.

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