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Orange Peel 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rob Knudsen, Dick "Duck" Novikoff, Greg Olsen, 1978
Page Views: 383
Submitted By: geoff georges on Feb 20, 2014

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Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>

Description 

There are several variations I have done off the Saber ledge. This is described as a horizontal traverse after going up the Saber Chimney to join Canary after the bolted section. The book does not describe where or how far up Saber the horizontal is, maybe about 30' I have traversed a steep wall and come out on the blocky arete right of Canary.
Another good variation is to go straight up the face between Canary and Saber from the Saber ledge. It is still 5.9, but has some tricky steep face climbing and watch out for fragile flakes, instead of joining Canary, keep going up blocky arete, veering more right and come to a bolted anchor on the face left of Saber inside corner.

Location 

at the top of pitch 1 of Saber or Canary on large ledge.

Protection 

standard rack, plenty of long slings..


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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Aug 21, 2015

Jon Nelson- care to elaborate on this?
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 21, 2015

I'll have to ask the other guy. I don't recall ever doing an FA on Castle.

OK, so the other guy spoke up. It was in fact three other guys on the FA. See the updated info. I'm rather doubting though that they are going to elaborate on the description. Sorry about that.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Aug 29, 2015

Wow, thats pretty funny, also in Viktor's book is Jim Nelson on FA of Exotic Dancer- which he says it was not him.
I always wondered about the bolted anchor that is on the buttress partway up the 2nd pitch of Sabar- but too far away and would not been placed for that route- figured it was done for Orange Peel.
Thanks for looking this up.

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