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Orange-Mocha Frappuccino 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Townsend, Amy Wicks 10/2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 719
Submitted By: Todd Townsend on Apr 2, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo

Description 

Start up the chimney, or the easy face on the right, to gain a low angle flaring hand crack. At a small ledge, step left around the arete into a finger crack and follow this up to a mini roof and a stump. Pull past the stump and face climb past two bolts (crux) to an incipient finger crack. This crack peters out at the last bolt. Traverse up and left to the anchor.

Location 

Between Like Buddah and Merman. Start in the chimney or up the easy face on the right. Rap down Lefty with a single 70m rope.

Protection 

3 bolts, gear to 3". Doubles in finger size are helpful. Belay from the top at the fixed ring bolt anchor.


Photos of Orange-Mocha Frappuccino Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: cranking the 'crux' move
cranking the 'crux' move

Comments on Orange-Mocha Frappuccino Add Comment
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By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Apr 17, 2015

Fun climbing! Singles rack up to 2 camelot, with a few extra finger pieces seemed adequate. had a 70 meter, I was able to lower off to the big ledge and belay my partner up the route. Thanks for putting it up, hope it gets done more.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 19, 2015

Glad you had fun.

That's good to know about lowering off. I didn't think that you'd make it, even with a 70. Probably still a good idea to tie a knot in the end, just to be safe.
By Tyler Wick
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 8, 2015

80m makes it almost all the way down, maybe 6-8ft of down climbing in the super easy section.
By MisterE Wolfe
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 24, 2015

Skip and I love this climb! Fun, varied, long and enjoyable the whole way. One of the best mixed .10a's we have done in a while! The protection is bomber, the bolts are well-placed, and the crux is super fun! Thanks, Todd and Amy!
Side-note: I never used the #2 or #3 on the rack.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Aug 3, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Nice route with great pro!
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Nov 14, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

not a big fan of the bottom half, but the top half is excellent and definitely worth doing. the gazelle and i both thought the crux was way easier than 10a. the holds are just too big and the angle not all that steep. put it in the valley, tuolumne, needles, or jtree and it would be 5.9 (on a bad day). a single 70m rope makes it to just below the big ledge and would require a downclimb from there. we rapped to the P1 anchor of merman.

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