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Orange Marmalade 

YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Josh Helke, 1998
Page Views: 1,049
Submitted By: Isaac Duncan on May 16, 2006

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Move after crux. Tyler Hoffart on the go before hi...


This is an old Josh Helke route completed way back when, then later deemed impossible by numerous Minnesota hardmen. And probably women too. Two recent sends (the most notable being Tyler Hoffart's second ascent 16 years after the first), however, have proved this thing not only goes, but is a great big ball of fun to climb as well. The line begins on an easy, left trending ramp to the far left side of the winter wall (think near NSP, Relentless, etc.). Basically, its the closest climbable line to the gully separating the winter wall and cyclops areas. You'll figure it out. After climbing the 5.5 ramp, take a break on the pedestal on top, then traverse right on two huecos into a sequence that seriously deserves a V-grade. Complete about 10 feet of hard, cool climbing which becomes rapidly more difficult as you move through it, until two stopper moves and an airy reach to a ledgy jug ends any difficulties. After a loud and energetic celebration (I think I screamed "Yes!" like 10 times), move up and right through slightly chossy 5.9 terrain to old anchors (shared with "Longing for Miss Adonis"). Lower, clean, revel in self awe- you sent this. You are special. You probably deserve a beer. Or the underage equivalent.


Bolts- it is worth noting that the 5th bolt on this route is next to impossible to clip on a send go, and with a good belayer is perfectly safe to skip.

Photos of Orange Marmalade Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyler finally past the difficulties. This photo ju...
Tyler finally past the difficulties. This photo ju...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyler pulling the crux move on his send. Use imagi...
Tyler pulling the crux move on his send. Use imagi...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 18, 2015
By Brandonbus
Apr 12, 2009

Has anyone done this? I tried it a few years ago and couldn't find a way up it. It did go at A0 though.
By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
Apr 13, 2009

Oh yeah I climbed that, I also thought it merits A0. It's funny Peter B. was just asking me about this route on FB. Maybe we need to take another look at it?
By AntVicino
Nov 1, 2009

Hopped on it today and am perplexed. 12? Really? Are pulling on the bolts considered on route? :P
By ferrells
Jul 11, 2010

I had exactly the same experience in 2005 or so. The rock wasn't bad - maybe it's actually just really technical and cool (highly doubtful).
By ferris
From: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Apr 19, 2011

hmmm A0 agreed. Shut down me and two other guys.
need to ask josh about this.
By Daniel Olmschenk
Aug 20, 2011

I think it could go. Tried it with Ferris (one of the two shut down). Every move went except one for me, but it seems very possible. I would suspect that it ends up in the 13+ range for whoever does it next.
By Tyler
Aug 3, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

It goes!
Did every move. Just need to put it together. Maybs 13bish? Remember, I can crimp pretty much anything.
By ferrells
Dec 16, 2014

I never posted that I got back on this in the spring this year for a couple of goes and did all the moves. I didn't red point, but agree it's probably something like 13-/13.
Pretty good stuff for Sand Wing.
By Isaac Duncan
Mar 17, 2015
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Last Sunday, the second and third ascents of this route went down by Tyler Hoffart and myself, respectively. The two sends were about 15 minutes apart, and caused some serious psych. This route officially goes for people who aren't Josh Helke, so everyone get after the thing, it's a blast! My personal opinion is that the route goes at around 13b, but I also was too short to send using Tyler's static beta through the crux, who I believe called it solid 13a at the time. Regardless of the grade, it's fun and hard, and needs more ascents this season!
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Mar 17, 2015

Isaac, I reassigned the route to you. Please provide an actual description! Thanks in advance.
By Tyler
Mar 18, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Like Isaac said, took er down this past Sunday. What a fun boulder problem!
This route is well worth the effort and more people should chime in. Go get on it!
I also have gotten the insider story from Josh Helke on the rating (12a is preposterous!) and hopefully he may choose to share that info. As far as I can tell, this rig is solid 13a.

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