Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Far East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alesia T,S 
Cowgirl Up S 
El Chupacabra S 
Emotional Content S 
Farrier, The S 
Filthy Sanchez S 
First Time Up T 
Full Yellow Jacket S 
Gracie's Eight S 
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades S 
King Kong S 
Kinky Boots S 
Manked T 
Montezuma's Toe S 
Orange Crush S 
Pieces of Eight S 
Plumb Bob S 
Purple Nehi S 
Recidivist S 
September Hero S 
Space Monkey S 
Spine Tingler S 
Supersoul Sureshot S 
Tuff Gong S 
Vodka Diet, The T 

Orange Crush 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 5,890
Submitted By: Andrew Tower on Jul 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (139)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Sepehr starting right above the fence.

Description 

Orange Crush is the furthest route East on the crag. Situated right next to the barbed wire fence. OC is the longest route in HCR and super fun with a great view when you finish.

Location 

Farthest East on the Far East Crag right next to the barbed wire fence.

Protection 

draws (about 14 of em) two bolt anchor.


Photos of Orange Crush Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Orange Crush w/ Austin Fisher
Orange Crush w/ Austin Fisher
Rock Climbing Photo: route photo
BETA PHOTO: route photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Michael is climbing Orange Crush on the right and ...
Michael is climbing Orange Crush on the right and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Noah on the Crush
Noah on the Crush
Rock Climbing Photo: At the anchors.
At the anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topped out and took a picture of the ranch.
Topped out and took a picture of the ranch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from a ledge near the top. What a beaut!
The view from a ledge near the top. What a beaut!

Comments on Orange Crush Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 8, 2016
By Andy Chasteen
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Jan 25, 2008

Who has 14 draws?
Cool route with a tricky little crux in the middle.
Don't fall on the barbed wire fence.
By JulSan
May 28, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If you are in the area, do take the time to check out "Orange Crush." It is one of those "must do fun climbs" at the HCR regardless of grade ratings.

May want to stick clip the first bolt hanger due to its bouldery start and close proximity to the wire fence which marks the property's boundary line (on the right).

By JBroom
From: anchorage, alaska
Jan 17, 2011

It's 14 bolts but a few can easily and safely be skipped due to the fact that super easy moves and bolts every 4-5 feet in places exist. Don't be discouraged if you don't have a whopping 14 draws.
By cfittell
From: Kansas City, MO
Apr 21, 2011

If you don't have 14 draws, grab the draw at your feet after you make a clip. Lots of ledges and close bolts make this easy to do if you're not comfortable running it out.
By Carl Sherven
Jan 21, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I didn't enjoy this climb, but the view at the top makes it worth climbing once. Bring your camera.
By Spenser Bolte
Jun 13, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

  • **BETA WARNING***

The crux (pulling the small roof a third of the way up) will feel pretty stiff to the 5.9 climber. I feel like a foot broke since the first time I did it, could be wrong though. Jam your hand under the roof and look for a jug farther right than you'd expect.
By Drew Nevius
From: Oklahoma
Jun 27, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I'll second what everyone else said about skipping bolts. Because of clipping stances, I usually skip the 2nd bolt on this route (though that risks falling on the fence) because I can already reach the 3rd by the time I would clip the 2nd.

  • *BETA WARNING**

At the crux, moving left around the arete, I thought I remember doing a layback move until I could reach the jug above. Spenser may be right about the holds out right though.. It's been at least a year since I've been on it.
By Luke Stollings
From: Austin, TX
Apr 16, 2014

I remember this route is long -- is a 60-meter rope enough? What about a 50?
By Gavin Echterling
Apr 16, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

@Luke - We used a 60m rope and that worked just fine. I believe the route is around 70ft high, at that you're looking at 140ft of rope approx so you'll likely have enough with 50m but if you've got a 60 bring that to be safe.
By Bob Ruzich
Mar 2, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A GREAT way to start your day and a must do if you are at HCR. Make it your first stop in the morning before the line gets long.
By Michael Parker
From: Tulsa, OK
Oct 18, 2016

  • *BETA WARNING***

I gastoned the large side pull with my right hand at the crux and got high feet to reach up and over the roof. This method was very physical. My partner used the rail on the bottom of the roof as an undercling with his right hand and used the big side pull with his left hand to work his feet up and gain the height needed to reach over the roof. Once you are past the roof, you can relax and enjoy the views all the way to the top clipping like 11 more bolts as you go.

I started the route with so many draws it felt like I was carrying my multi-pitch rack...
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Nov 8, 2016

We had at least two very different solutions to the crux ... naturally the easier beta was not the solution that seemed obvious to me!