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Santa Ana Mountains

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Santa Ana Mountains Rock Climbing 

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Location: 33.70978, -117.5338 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Feb 26, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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putting on a flexibility clinic


The Santa Ana Mountains are the eastern boundary of the Los Angeles basin. They are peaked by the "Saddleback" formation of Santiago and Modjeska Peaks, both over 4,000 feet in elevation. The crest of the range forms part of the border between Orange and Riverside Counties. Most of the public land here is part of the Cleveland National Forest.

It has range has some good bouldering areas, including the two best known, El Cariso and Ortega Falls. A few crags here also have small single pitch roped routes, but overall rock here is short.

Getting There 

Drive to Orange County

Climbing Season

Weather station 11.0 miles from here

122 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',60],['1 Star',20],['Bomb',2]

Classic Climbing Routes in Santa Ana Mountains

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Santa Ana Mountains:
Mid Day Mantle   V0 4     Boulder, 14'   KinderCare Boulders
Watch Your Back   V1 5     Boulder, 9'   KinderCare Boulders
Elysia    V1 5     Boulder   El Cariso : El Cariso - Misc Problems
Pizza Face   V1+ 5     Boulder   El Cariso : El Cariso - Misc Problems
The Shocker    V2-3 5+     Boulder, 12'   El Cariso : The Shocker
Goomba   V2-3 5+     Boulder, 10'   El Cariso : El Cariso - Misc Problems
Grumpy Man (aka old man)   V2-3 5+     Boulder   El Cariso : Grumpy Man
The Brain   V3 6A     Boulder   El Cariso : Grumpy Man
Pipe Around   V3-4 6A+     Boulder   El Cariso : El Cariso - Misc Problems
El Chorizo   V4 6B     Boulder, 8'   El Cariso : El Cariso - Misc Problems
Dihedral   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Ortega Falls
unknown slab   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   El Cariso : El Cariso - Misc Problems
Route 2   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   San Juan Canyon
Fingers   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Ortega Falls
slabby face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR   El Cariso : El Cariso - Misc Problems
Slim Jim   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   El Cariso : El Cariso - Misc Problems
Unknown   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Ortega Falls
Splitter   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ortega Falls
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Santa Ana Mountains

Featured Route For Santa Ana Mountains
Rock Climbing Photo: at the crux

Heelnasium V4-5 6B+  California : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Steve's Suggestion
Start with matched hands on either side of where the roof pinches the other large boulder. walk feet up and move up and out across the roof, use a heel hook and mantle up. then its friction to the top. I should add this is a classic for the area, as most of the ratings go for el cariso... they are all rated relative to the area ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Santa Ana Mountains Add Comment
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By Brian Chastain
Jun 21, 2015
Not to be a jerk but SoCal is my home and Clevland Ntl Forest or any mountains surrounding OC are not prime in June as this graph above indicates. In fact, it may be close to the poorest time to climb. Try full on winter time.

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