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Orange County Choppers 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Berstead, Jones
Page Views: 159
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 26, 2016

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Thank god holds after the steep leaning crack and ...

Description 

Put this one on your must do list for Pine Creek. Not a perfect route, a bit loose at the start and can't say I didn't wonder about the giant flake you climb at the top, but the climbing and position are great. A low first bolt, maybe due to the questionable rock at the very bottom protects a move or two to a positive rail. Not hard but balancey moves to the third bolt, where you don't want to fall, lead to better protected and to me harder climbing on bomber rock above. A clip around the 5th or sixth bolt was the crux for me. After that great positive holds lead up to a ledge at the base of the ever widening flake. Exposed and steep jamming up the flake leads to a cool move to a small ledge and finishes up the perfect knee size crack to the anchor. Make sure to have a few shoulder length slings at the top to keep your rope off the razor sharp flake that is the "chopper" of the route.

Location 

Uphill from the Silverback . The obvious bolted route high up the hill with a very low first bolt.

Protection 

8 or more draws, 3 or more shoulder length slings and pro from a #1 Camalot to a #5. I had an old 5 but could have got the new 5 in sooner. The old 5 was perfect at the top though. Not sure I would want to carry both. You might want less but I was happy to have one each from a #1 to a #5. Also an old bigger #4 was nice.


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By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 3, 2016

Felt better on this today. Could have easily got by with 1 ea. #2,#3, old #4,and new #5. Also do not forget a few runners for the gear in the wide to avoid the chop.

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