|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]|
|FA:||Chris Weidner, Alex Shainman|
|Submitted By:||Chris Weidner on Apr 19, 2004|
|Comments on Orange Corner||Add Comment|
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 6, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
We rapped off P1 of Where Eagles Dare a few weeks ago and got a look at this climb, and I thought, "Yeah, it looks like about 5.8." So we decided it would make a good warm-up climb today. 5.8 is a major sandbag in my opinion. Felt more like Where Eagles Dare (10c). Way harder than any of the 4 bolted climbs to the left or any of the trad 9s at Blob. But perhaps I was in shock at running into such hard climbing on what I expected to be a cruise. The only thing that got me up the pitch was my unwillingness to downclimb to the ground to clean my gear.
We approached the crux corner differently than described above. Rather than 'climbing the first 40 feet of unprotected slab on "Where Eagles Dare"' (disagree about the "unprotected" btw), we climbed right of the orange streak up a right leaning right facing groove and then angled left to the base of the corner. You could also climb straight up, left around a headwall and then slightly right to the same place (dirty and poor gear), or perhaps climb the headwall directly (cleaner but poor gear).
The crux is S due to the likelihood of hitting the slab. There is excellent gear at your feet when you get the first jug (I had 4 good pieces).
As for the "scary moves traversing back left into the corner", it sounds like Chris and Alex may have climbed up onto the slab right of the crux corner and then moved left. I considered that, but it looked way too scary. Maybe it's 5.8 that way? Instead I did some hard stemming to get the first jug. It took a long time to figure this move out. Then another hard move to get the second jug, which also was hard to figure.