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Crystal Freeway
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Saturday T 
Exit Ramp T,S 
Grunt Lieback T,TR 
Kitchen's Delight 2 T 
Low Road T 
Mr. Chimp T 
Northeast Cutoff T 
Orange Christmas T 
Strawberry Jam T 
Strong Love T 
Very Bad Saturday T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Orange Christmas 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R [details]
FA: Piana and Skinner
Page Views: 88
Submitted By: Jeff G. on Jun 28, 2010

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Orange Christmas is a long and demanding pitch of face climbing and crystal pinching. The crux is in the first 25 feet and involves sustained face work up a water groove and then a very difficult pull over a bulge to get established on the lower angle wall above. After the crux bulge, work straight up to the bottom of a large flake system (this is the route "Flake Out"). Place gear in the bottom of this crack and make a lengthy rightwards traverse aiming for the first of the bolts on the upper slab. The upper slab is easier (9+ or 10a in spots) but is very runout. It is 20 feet plus between old quarter inch bolts.

Location 

The route starts down and left from Strawberry Jam and Grunt Lieback. Look for 4 old quarter inch bolts leading up and a little left through a water groove and over a bulge. The large flake system of Flake Out is directly above the start.

Protection 

8 bolts total. All bolts are original and marginal at best. The upper bolts have homemade aluminum hangers - very inspiring! The bottom 4 bolts are pretty close together for the hard climbing and the top 4 bolts are very spaced. You can also place a yellow metolius to protect the rightward traverse onto the upper face. A nice #2 camelot fits in here as well. There is a new and bomber two bolt anchor at the top with steel rap rings. You can make it with two ropes to the ground or you can use a single rope and make it to the anchors atop Grunt Layback and from there to the ground.


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By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Jul 20, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R

Replaced all the bolts today. Even with fat bolts, the second half (or second pitch) is intimidating! The bolts on the second half/pitch are hard to see.

Bolt beta for the second half starting at the possible belay at the base of the Flake Out dihedral:
1st is about 30 ft away at 2:00.
2nd is 25 ft above at 12:30.
3rd is 35 or 40 feet straight up the rib.
4th is 10 ft at 1:30.
Rock Climbing Photo: The old and the new.
The old and the new.

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