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A long and demanding pitch of face climbing and crystal pinching. The crux is in the first 25 feet and involves sustained face work up a water groove and then a very difficult pull over a bulge to get established on the lower angle wall above. After the crux bulge work straight up to the bottom of a large flake system (this is the route "Flake Out"). Place gear in the bottom of this crack and make a lengthy rightwards traverse aiming for the first of the bolts on the upper slab. The upper slab is easier (9+ or 10a in spots) but is very runout. 20 feet plus between old quarter inch bolts.
The route starts down and left from Strawberry Jam and Grunt Layback. Look for 4 old quarter inch bolts leading up and a little left through a water groove and over a bulge. The large flake system of Flake Out is directly above the start.
8 bolts total. All bolts are original and marginal at best. The upper bolts have homemade aluminum hangers - very inspiring! The bottom 4 bolts are pretty close together for the hard climbing and the top 4 bolts are very spaced. You can also place a yellow metolius to protect the rightward traverse onto the upper face. A nice #2 camelot fits in here as well. There is a new and bomber two bolt anchor at the top with steel rap rings. You can make it with two ropes to the ground or you can use a single rope and make it to the anchors atop Grunt Layback and from there to the ground.
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Jul 20, 2015
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Replaced all the bolts today. Even with fat bolts, the second half (or second pitch) is intimidating! The bolts on the second half/pitch are hard to see.
Bolt beta for the second half starting at the possible belay at the base of the Flake Out dihedral:
1st is about 30 ft away at 2:00.
2nd is 25 ft above at 12:30.
3rd is 35 or 40 feet straight up the rib.
4th is 10 ft at 1:30.