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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rob Settlemire, Gary Adams
Page Views: 334
Submitted By: Muscrat on Jun 4, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Orangahang.


Start up difficult to protect easy boulder problem to a low angle bushy crack. at approximately 40' the business starts. Fingers to hands to offhands/fists, a left arching steep crack you wish went on for 1,000'! Just beautiful. Much harder then 10.b if you just use the crack. Eats nuts.


The orange overhanging left arching crack, easily seen from the lower trail. The lower section occasionally needs pruning, can be very bushy.


Standard rack to 3". Doubles 1-3? Nuts and offset nuts work well. Shoulder slings, and a brush to clean if it is the first lead of the year. There are now anchors on top (you have to pull the lip to reach them, save a #2 for the lip)

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By Muscrat
Jun 4, 2015

Be aware that you are in a national park, and the removal of living plants is a no-no. This route gets overgrown easily, the lower easy section (5.7?) can be made difficult to protect with dirt and plants in the crack. Leader should carry a nut tool to clean the crack for pro. Hey, it's alpine!
This is a great line, fun to do laps on. It is definitely harder than 10.b if you do not use the face holds. Also fun to top rope the face below and to the left of the crack. 11?

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