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Oral in the Dark T,TR 
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Trap 'em! S 

Oral in the Dark 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Marissa Gorman, Joe Falzetta (Belayer) August 9, 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 367
Submitted By: Kris Fiore on Aug 9, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Sammy-Jo Traceyville on the left, Oral in the Dark...

The Old Forge area is a patchwork of private and public property. Please respect private property and posted signs, and avoid climbing or trespassing on private property unless you have permission from the landowner.

Description 

A really stellar pitch up an unlikely face. Scary but quality and can be easily TRd by climbing "Trap 'Em!" first and traversing a few feet to the anchors.

Start in a mediocre crack to get established on the ledge above. Step right and enter a broken crack system under the roof. Pull on very interesting holds making committing runout moves to reach a prominent horizontal crack. Place pro and work up with difficulty on to an exposed and unlikely face with fun thought-provoking moves and tricky gear.

Named for an inside joke made by one of Kris' campers at his nearby summer camp and a nod to the fact that the FA was at night.

Location 

About 30 feet right of 5th class and 15 feet right of Sammy-Jo Traceyville.

Protection 

The pro on this is very specific and after the first piece there is a sizable runout (15-20ft) before the next opportunity for gear. It's 5.10- terrain through this section on good holds but be aware this is not a beginner's lead. If a hold broke or you slip you would deck on the ledge before probably hitting the ground. Exciting?

The second half has gear at good intervals although it is tricky to find. Keep looking, it's there and it is good. All crux moves at the top are well protected.

One can easily set a toprope on this climb by climbing Trap 'Em!

Two-bolt anchor.


Photos of Oral in the Dark Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Headlamp FA of "Oral in the Dark".
Headlamp FA of "Oral in the Dark".
Rock Climbing Photo: The headlamp first ascent of "Oral in the Dar...
The headlamp first ascent of "Oral in the Dar...

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